Grand Bahama Yacht Club, Port Lucaya, Grand Bahama

Tuesday we had planned to leave for the US and duly got up early to head off. It was looking very squally with black clouds in the distance and we were in two minds whether to leave. I suppose impatience got the better of us and we decided to depart as we were all paid up and the boat was ready. We went out of the narrow Bell channel and into the route out over the shallower water and through the reef. As soon as we got out of the channel and began pounding into the swell (which is completely absent in the well protected GBYC), we started to think we’d been a bit hasty. We thought that if we carried on, to the deeper water it might improve but after about a mile it was still pretty rough and blowing considerably harder than forecast. As we had quite a long passage ahead (75 miles) including the notorious Gulf Stream we decided to wait for another day, so for the first time ever headed back to port.

Invincible in her berth (taken on a different day with better weather!)

We radioed in and they put us back to the same berth. We got back to the slip just as the heavens opened and finished our mooring up in the rain. As it turned out, we made the right choice, as the squalls didn’t stop all day and the wind coming with them was rather strong. It was a quiet day in with book/ internet listening to the rain hammering on the roof.

Grand Bahama Yacht Club, Port Lucaya, Grand Bahama

Monday was just as hot and humid as we were doing some cleaning and tidying on the boat. Hazel arranged to collect me at 11.15 am to go to the supermarket so once the boat was clean I went off to meet her at the security gates. Hazel arrived bang on time after her daily walk down the beach with her dog and we went off downtown. I was struck again by the way everything is very spread out, in a US style, car based way in Grand Bahama and I suppose how it is now going in the UK now with out of town shopping centres. Nonetheless the roads were very good, the best I think I have seen in the Caribbean and everywhere is really tidy and well kept with lots of lawned areas. Hazel was telling me about the ex-pat population in the Bahamas, many for the ship yard, though as everywhere else outsiders working in the Bahamas must be brought in for skilled posts which cannot be filled by locals.

Owners boathouse at the Grand Bahama Yacht Club

We did a few errands for Hazel and then went to the City Market supermarket, the same brand as we had been using in Nassau. The prices seemed a bit lower here if anything. I was also quite interested to see for the first time, hurricane supplies for sale such as camping gas stoves, weather radios etc. I gather from Hazel that Grand Bahama has been rarely directly hit, but did suffer a hurricane I think 7 years ago. The problem it seems is rarely the actual hurricane passing but the disruption to utilities which often goes on for sometime after, so people have since then been installing generators and stock pilling bottled water etc in preparation.

Hazel helped me back to the boat with the shopping and stopped for a drink and a look round. Kevin was hard at it filling the water having completed the engine checks and washing the outside of the boat. We said good bye to Hazel and vowed to meet again when we return. We had a quiet afternoon onboard. Obviously as Kevin has washed the boat it rained all afternoon!

Grand Bahama Yacht Club, Port Lucaya, Grand Bahama

Sunday was another really hot and humid day and with little air movement at the marina, we decided the only course of action was to find somewhere with air conditioning! We therefore decided to get the ferry across to Port Lucaya to have Sunday lunch, we had been recommended Shenanigans, an Irish pub which serves Guinness imported from Dublin and Irish food. We have been quite amazed to find Guinness readily available in the Bahamas and apparently quite popular, but most of that available is brewed locally and according to aficionados’ is not a patch on the real thing.

Condominiums at the Grand Bahama Yacht Club

We headed out but were rather disappointed to find the place closed and several others around it too. After much walking around in the sun, the only place with indoor seating was a restaurant called Le Med, which turned out not to be air-conditioned either, but did have fans which was better than nothing. The food however was fairly disappointing, I guess we should have realised with the plastic covered table cloths! At least we were cool for a while!

I decided to swim off my lunch and so we headed to the pool later and found it fairly busy. There are condominiums all round the yacht club and I think they have a lot of regular visitors. One lady was doing water aerobics and a few others lounging by the pool reading. I took a swim but couldn’t help being distracted by the large number of leaves and creepy crawlies floating in the water and decided to get out and read too. Kevin had spotted that baseball was showing on the tv at the bar and decided to watch. He is trying to get himself up to speed as he’d like to go and watch a game when we get to the States.

Marina office at the Grand Bahama Yacht Club

We were quite surprised to hear Liverpudlian accents (being from the North West, UK ourselves) near us at the bar and soon got talking to Hazel, Steve and Steve who are all living out in Grand Bahama, the two Steve work for the Camel Laird shipyard in Freeport. Steve has been on the island for 8 years and Steve & Hazel for nearly 2 years and they all seem to love the island life. They told us about the diving and lifestyle on the Bahamas and we told them about our travels. Hazel very kindly offered to drive me to the shops the next day when I asked her where the nearest supermarket was so we arranged to following morning.

Now the weather had cooled a little we returned to the boat for some dinner and a DVD.

Grand Bahama Yacht Club, Port Lucaya, Grand Bahama

We have a dawn departure for our 58 mile sail to Grand Bahama, though again we are not rewarded with the best winds and are still running against a current as we depart under motor sail. Finally when the tide turns we can switch off the motors and sail. There is little swell and we take 2 hour watches so that the other can sleep / read / relax for a while. During my watch we are being gradually overtaken from astern by a large tanker of some sort. As Kevin takes over they are within half a mile. We are undersail and they are overtaking, it is clearly for them to give way but clearly they don’t choose to give us much room.

    Close encounter 1

The afternoon carries on quietly and we are approaching Grand Bahama with land in sight. I see a large vessel on the horizon just as Kevin comes on watch, he complains that I seem to manage to do this each watch as he turns to starboard to avoid them. He turns more to starboard, as per the collision regulations, 2 hours and 2 miles off our course later we finally pass them as I come on watch. They are obviously drifting along the coast and drifting to port, across our deviated track but this is not clear until we get closer, they eventually start engines with a burst of black smoke and point their bows away.

Close encounter 2

Finally we reach the buoys of the Bell channel and turn to starboard for the Grand Bahama Yacht Club. We are planning to come back here with Alex and Sean in a couple of weeks and wanted to check it out. We are given a dock and are met by an attendant in a golf buggy who takes our lines. I go and check us in whilst Kevin finishes tying up then we both head for a shower. We go for a drink at the pool side bar after our shower arriving for happy hour. We chat to the lovely local barmaid Nikita who tells us a bit more about Bahamians and is really friendly. She insists that we should see the famous Lucayan market square where there is live entertainment in the evenings. It is now 10pm and we have been up since dawn and say we’ll go tomorrow. She is quite insistent that Sunday night will not be as good and after having some of the local strong Sands beer on an empty stomach somehow it seems a good idea.

Port Lucaya marketplace

Nikita calls the free water taxi service for us and we travel over with a nice Pilipino guy who works on the local ships. The area is buzzing and there are lots of people in the market place or milling round the many shops and bars around. We are starving and head straight to Zorba’s the Greek restaurant as we have only an hour before the last ferry back. After the quickest meal ever of hummus (one of my favourites), Greek salad and Greek kebab for Kevin we go back to watch the show in the market place. There are two girls on stage who are excellent singers who at the opening bars of one song are joined by a very excited local lady who jumps up on stage and after a quick conflab grabs the microphone and sings a few lines. It seems we have missed the fire dancers and limbo dancers though and we head back for the ferry.

Port Lucaya

Goat Cay, Berry Islands, Bahamas

Another day another short day hop along the Berry Islands, this time reaching the northern most islands to allow us to pass to Grand Bahama the following day.

It is a fairly quiet day enough wind to justify sail up but with the contrary 2 knot current not enough to switch off the motors. We arrive at Goat Cay between the Great and Little Stirrup Cays which have apparently been commandeered by the cruise ships. They anchor outside and shuttle guests in and have build cafeterias, first aid stations, bars etc onshore.

There is another catamaran anchored at Goat Cay as we head across but they pull up their anchor as we start to drop our sails. We think this is good news as it is a fairly small anchorage. They start to navigate by eye across to Lignum Vitae Cay, which we know to be 1 m or less most of the way in and watch with interest. They get part way in then turn about, obviously spotting us moving toward the anchorage. There is then a comedy supermarket car park type rush to get a spot, being rather smaller than they and with an engineer skipper who would not over-rev our engines on pain of death we come in second but luckily there is plenty of room and our anchor digs in straight away. We are both hot and sticky and jump in for a swim, though as per my snorkel at Frozen Cay yesterday I am soon joined by a Great Barracuda. Kevin has recently read the tragic story of the USN Indianapolis that we picked up at a book swap, in which the Great Barracuda forms a rather evil role and I have never been comfortable with them since as they just don’t swim off like the other fish do. The water is green and murky anyway with literally a thick lawn of sea grass beneath so we are both soon out of the water.

Goat Cay

It is a squally afternoon as the wind comes in from all directions, with intermittent rain. We content ourselves with a good book with the loud cricket noises from Goat Cay as accompaniment.

Frozen Cay, Berry Islands, Bahamas

We are up early and finally get the confirmations I need to book the flights, then our internet access runs out. I pay for another hour. Then my credit card gets stopped again because we are using it aboard. I Skype them and are put through to a call centre on a bad Skype connection where “Rachel” who is clearly in not in the UK tries to make out what I am saying. Credit card working again I get one flight booked. I get to the last step of the second flight and even though I have not stopped moving through the process it times out. I repeat steps 1 through 10, confirming flight numbers, seats etc between the two connections and 4 people over 6 weeks. Second flight booked. I get to the last step of flight three and then the 1 hour internet runs out! Arrgghh, buy more internet time and finally book the last flight! Stressed and aggravated but pleased it is finally sorted we head to the fuel dock, though it is now 11.30 am and our departure straight to Florida overnight to arrive in daylight is no longer timed well.

We get fuel and then motor under the two Paradise Island bridges, our first bridge on Invincible which although we have calculated we have a good 10ft of clearance over the mast even at high water from the prospective on deck looks sure to hit. We clear both bridges fine however and enjoy the views of the big villas and private docks all down the Paradise Island side and the cruise ships on the Nassau side leaving the harbour to the west this time. By Murphy’s law there is little or no wind now and we have to motor into a very light head wind contrary to expectations from forecasts.

Invincible passing under the Paradise Island bridges 

You know you should pass clear but…

Around this time we decide that a long slog under motor straight to Florida is probably not going to be much fun and decide to turn the trip into day hops selecting the anchorage by Little Harbour Cay / Frozen Cay in the Berry Islands for the night. We have about 30 miles to go and arrive early evening, we are just beaten there by presumably the owners of the private Frozen Cay island in their helicopter which after a long motor in the heat seems a very fast and civilised form of travel.

Discreet buildings on the private Frozen Cay

We enjoy being on anchor in the peace and quiet and greenery of the Berry Islands after too long listening to screeching tyres and squawking exhausts in Nassau in the evening. We are even rewarded with a beautiful sunset.

Lovely sunset over the Berry Islands

Bayshore Marina, Nassau, New Providence, Bahamas

More flights arranging getting work confirmations etc, but still not quite booked as I wait to hear back. We get the boat ready for our trip to Florida, checking the engine levels, filling the water, going to the supermarket etc. We aim to leave in the morning after visiting the fuel dock.

Bayshore Marina, Nassau, New Providence, Bahamas

After more flight searching in the morning – some have gone up £150 overnight we head to Nassau to pick up our visas. We are less than amused to find that there is already a queue outside in the bus shelter area. Luckily though it is quickly moved along and we are inside within 15 minutes and through the two lots of security. Once inside it is clear that everyone has been given a time of 2.30pm for visa collection and we are in for a wait. We are directed to two chairs by security as the row two back from us is led up to the standing queue to wait for the one window where a lady is handing out the visas.

We are told to print our name and sign the cards we have been given. It then occurs to us we do not know which is which and as I am still travelling under my maiden name as I have been unable to change my passport, if we get it wrong we imagine trouble. Kevin reckons that his will be the first and signs. Conversation breaks out in the queue as pens are passed around and then the queue is made to move along the chairs, three at a time, when you reach the top of the row you have to go to the bottom of the next row. Everyone is quite amused by the musical chairs situation as about every 10minutes you have to get up and move along another 3 chairs! We start chatting to the South African beside us who works on one of the local cruise ships and is getting his work visa renewed. He is about the 20th person to ask us why when we are from England we have to get a visa to visit the USA, though we discuss how he now has to get one just to transit the UK on a plane connection, so it seems worldwide.

We eventually reach the top of the queue and have guessed right on signing our cards. We have now got US visas attached into our passports and can visit the US by sea! We return to the boat for a bit more back and forth with flights (trying to coordinate Alex to fly out with Sean and back with Donna and Mark).

Bayshore Marina, Nassau, New Providence, Bahamas

Finally, our US visa appointment is here after weeks of waiting and hopefully after today we can carry on our travelling. We are up early and after our previous bus experiences opt to walk to be sure of arriving 15 minutes early for our appointment as recommended. We arrive hot and sticky after our 40 minute walk in proper clothes (shirts, trousers and shoes!) in the humidity even before 9am. We walk to the security guard on the gate as we had been previously instructed and let them know we have a 9 am appointment. There is a whole queue of about 20 people already sat in a bus shelter type arrangement beside. We quickly learn that this is the visa queue as we had feared. So now we get to sit outside, in the shade but with no breeze in the humidity.

It seems that there are many people assigned to each 30 minute timeslot even though Kevin and I were given successive 9 and 9.30 am slots. We are finally admitted inside at 9.10 am and to our first security stop, my bag is searched and all the men have to remove belts to pass by the airport style scanners. I retrieve my bag from the xray machine and we head out the door. I am halfway out when called back, Kevin is not allowed to wait for me and sent through the fenced courtyard to the next door. I have apparently unwittingly tried to smuggle a 2cm safety pin into the building in my bag, but luckily have been found out and it is confiscated before I can reek havoc.

I am directed to the next door, where Kevin is currently passing through another metal detector / xray scanner perhaps in case you received something through the fence. I am slightly disheartened to see a room full of people, but Kevin is sent to stand in a queue straight away. I am not allowed to stand beside him but have to wait until he is at the window. At his turn we duly both report to the available window, but are told there cannot be two and Kevin goes to sit down, she goes through the form which I have apparently incorrectly completed. I am told we then need to go to window B when it is free. At window B, Kevin and I report for our electronic finger printing and are then told to proceed to the cashier. We pay our $131 each and are told to take a seat. We are not sure quite what comes next but were expecting an interview of some sort. It then dawns that there are only 1-2 people doing the interviews, one primarily sees the US citizens from a separate queue. There must be 40 people already waiting infront of us on the seats. Luckily there is a TV and CNN is showing though this quickly becomes very repetitive. Just after 11.30am we are finally called to a window and interviewed for about 2 minutes, we have to show our boat registration and a bank statement and we are told we are approved! We receive two numbered cards to collect our passports tomorrow with a 2.30pm timeslot.

Relieved that it is all over but rather annoyed by the organisation, we make our way back to the boat. We are now clear to go to the US for hurricane season and will be going as far as New York by the end of August. We have Kevin’s daughter Alex coming out for 6 weeks, nephew Sean for 2 weeks and my sister Donna and brother-in-law Mark for 2 weeks. I now spend the afternoon on the internet trying to book flights and call them to confirm.

Bayshore Marina, Nassau, New Providence, Bahamas

A quiet weekend onboard catching up on Skype, DVDs and reading etc.

Bayshore Marina, Nassau, New Providence, Bahamas

Our US visa appointment approaching on Monday, I dragged out all of our documentary evidence again to make sure that we had everything covered – why you are going, proof that you have ties elsewhere and that you will leave, proof that you can support yourself there etc. All present and correct, though the black printer cartridge was on it’s way out and the last couple of prints were barely legible (we obviously have two spare colour cartridges but no black). I had also forgotten that I still hadn’t got my passport photo taken.

So off I went on a bit of a tour, three computer shops later and still no printer cartridge nor anywhere local to get a photo taken so I took my first venture on a local bus. Being on a one way road about 2-3 miles from downtown Nassau, you end up taking one of the circular bus tours round the houses then onto downtown Nassau. I hadn’t realised quite how far it went first otherwise I think I may have even done the walk in the heat, as 40 minutes later I arrive in downtown Nassau. I had had a fairly extensive tour of the area first though as 40 minutes travelling on an island only 27 miles long and 7 miles wide yet without actually leaving the built up area of Nassau itself must surely call at most districts. Also, although the bus routes are numbered up to about 27, I also got the distinct impression that if the traffic is busy the bus driver can divert as they wish. It is not too picturesque out of the tourist areas and some areas seem pretty poor. The traffic is fairly heavy everywhere, but then this is very much a car-based society (directions always given as if you are driving and shops being malls with big car parks). Any Bahamians we have met outside Nassau seem to hate the place and blame it for all crime in the Bahamas.

Eventually I find a passport photo shop (no booths here) and wait in line as a local family come in dress up in proper Sunday best  obviously for portraits including two little boys one dressed head to toe in a white suit, white waistcoat and white tie who is judiciously and firmly placed on his mother’s knee until photo time. Mine is very quickly taken, I am asked the purpose of the photo and when it is ready I am passed a 2 inch square photo, i.e. not normal passport photo dimensions. I double check the size with the assistant and she says, yes that is right.

I return back to the boat and immediately drag out the visa instructions and the ruler, yes, it seems US passport photos are not the same size as English. So, now we have to repeat the exercise because Kevin’s photos are ones we had left over from something else in English sizing, never having thought to measure it. So, off we go back into Nassau. We start out walking planning to call in at another computer shop for a cartridge on the way. There is an enormous storm cloud hovering and the weather is extremely humid. We then discover that the directions we have been given are not too good and everyone we ask is unable to help much. Eventually we pass a mall with another store, not the one we were looking for but they have the Canon cartridge we need.

As the squall is almost overhead by the time we come out and now a long way from the Nassau road we decide to brave the bus again. This time we travel for about 30 minutes, amusingly passing a few of the things I have seen that morning but often from the opposite direction. I think Kevin has despaired of us ever reaching downtown Nassau by now, having a much better sense of direction than I is less happy to sit contentedly as we regularly turn away from Nassau. However, eventually we arrive and I escort Kevin to the photo shop and we finally have his photos too. It is now about 5pm and still raining so we decide to fulfil one of Kevin’s Nassau visiting plans – a Hard Rock Cafe t-shirt.

Trip Souvenir

Hard Rock Cafe’s t-shirt sales must now be such a major part of the business that they are in a shop on the ground floor and the restaurant is upstairs. They have quite an array of designs but Kevin chooses the traditional white. We decide to have a burger (veggie for me) whilst we are there. For once in the pouring rain, the aircon is actually that bit too cold and we are quite pleased when the hot food arrives. Having worked previously in the US, Kevin has often remarked on the quality of the burgers actually being made of beef, though this US chain didn’t quite have it right. I was also rather shocked to find my small glass of white wine was $9.

Bayshore Marina, Nassau, New Providence, Bahamas

We had a quiet day escaping the heat and the wind. We managed to give the boat a really good scrub down, it was amazing how grimy it had got, though I think most of that was contributed by being in such a built up area. It started to pour down whilst we were washing the boat but we just carried on, now just having to apply soap. Eventually it stopped raining as quickly as it began, we were both fairly soaked now but soon were over hot again trying to work in the heat. So once Invincible was gleaming again we both got a hose down on the dock!

Uncle Tellis’ stall under Paradise Island bridge 

Later that afternoon, after all of that activity we felt we had earned some refreshment and Kevin was very keen to try out the stalls on the edge of Potter’s Cay the fishing wharf, under the shadow of Paradise island bridge. We walked down the row of 10 or so stalls, many of which were filling up with local visitors apparently on their way back from work. The dominoes table at the end of the row was the scene of quite a concentrated game, though from our previous visits that goes on all day everyday.

We opted for Uncle Tellis’ stall at the end of the row, which was already busy.  All of the stalls seemed to provide much the same menu of local fish (snapper, conch) and chicken (roast and jerk) dishes. A few more adventurous stalls also offer barracuda though they display a warning that these are eaten at the customers risk – being a potential ciguaterra (poisonous algae) carrier. I wasn’t too hungry and being a little cautious of local caught fish for the same reason opted for the conch fritters. Kevin despite his raving about eating local seafood straight off the boat opted for chicken this being one of his deprivations living with a veggie (albeit fish eating – I haven’t ventured to try chicken again since my first attempt).

Uncle Tellis’ stall, basic but freshly supplied

The crowd at Uncle Tellis’ were a lot of fun, firstly a young American couple who were from somewhere near Savannah and though being in Nassau only a few days had mastered the local buses and tried quite a few local places. They were I think fairly shocked by the cost of living compared to the States and were hence finding the local cheaper alternatives. They soon departed to get their bus. Uncle Tellis himself then came round the bar and told us about his travels in England which seemed to have been more extensive than most of the English. Though I think his biggest achievement in his travels came from his sampling of local bitters which he apparently did very thoroughly. It seems he found one of those local pubs with their own noxious brew of which even the locals would drink no more than three small glasses, a challenge he gamely took up, despite dire warnings of the fate of anyone passing out from the effects within the premises. It seems he survived though, but only by timing his collapse to be just outside the door. There were a number of other tales all told at top speed and usually involving a lady, plus some pretty choice jokes which I think Kevin has noted for later retelling with the boys!

Uncle Tellis himself

We also met another older local guy, George and his three friends who also bounced the banter off each other. Although George’s walking was rather laboured and assisted by two sticks having apparently been on a sinking ship and various other mishaps during his local nautical career he also left us to go out on the town with the girls, two of, at least 20 years his junior, no wonder he was always smiling. It was a fun night, the Bahamians have definitely been the friendliest people we have met so far and have earned the reputation from their islands being called the Friendly Islands.

Uncle Tellis’ stall

After an hour or two I decided it was time for us to go too – the bathroom facilities being a gap between huts leading to the waters edge which the men took their turn to use. One local lady did also venture, with her husband / boyfriend to stand at the entrance but I declined this option!Jo at Uncle Tellis’

Bayshore Marina, Nassau, New Providence, Bahamas

Well the weather did not improve until late afternoon on Tuesday, so we delayed our Paradise Island trip to today. Wednesday started with clear blue skies so we made a relatively early start across the bridge to Paradise Island. We discovered on our way over that Potters Cay is actually the fishing wharf of Nassau and at the foot of the bridge is a number of little shacks selling fresh seafood that we have made a date in our diary to come back and sample.

 View over Paradise Island bridge

There is a pretty spectacular view over Nassau from the tall arched bridges to Paradise Island and a very welcome breeze to improve the walk. We were soon across and straight away the landscaped hedges and immaculate lawns at the roadside showed that this was a really different area to downtown Nassau. Immediately we reached a shopping mall and were passed by a stream of buses presumably with today’s cruise ship guests arriving to Atlantis. We first found the Atlantis marina which was full of large luxurious motor cruisers and one ornate classic yacht. On the waterside is a lovely development of pastel coloured shops with discrete signs. Here the boater can purchase such essential nautical items as Versace Jeans, Colombian Emeralds and Perfumes. There is also a good selection of restaurants and cafes where surprisingly the prices are actually much the same as the Poop Deck restaurant next to our marina.

 

Atlantis marina

We wondered inside the Atlantis complex, where yet more designer shops (Gucci, Lalique, Cartier etc) are available. The air conditioning hits you before you even reaches the door and Kevin and I breathed a sigh of relief to reach a normal body temperature for the first time in weeks! We walked through the mall and past the spectacular crystal sculpture about 20ft high, which we overheard from the cruiseship tour contains over a million dollars worth of crystal. This leads into a vast casino, never having visited Las Vegas this was fascinating to me. There were row upon row of one arm bandit machines, rather dangerously accepting room keys not cash. Then there were several poker and black jack tables etc. There wasn’t anyone playing as it was only around 10am so we continued into another enormous foyer at the base of which was the famous aquarium. 

 The Atlantis complex

The only way to describe the aquarium is to say it is spectacular, I have never seen as many fish diving as were visible through the glass of the aquarium. There were two enormous manta rays, a sting ray, two lemon shark, African pompanos, snappers, groupers, bonefish, sunfish and hundreds of others of varying sizes all set around a fake sunken Aztec monument. We were both mesmerised and spent quite a while trying to identify the fish. The thick walls of glass stretched about 50m along the side of the enormous foyer. The fish were constantly circling and chasing each other and shoaling and in many ways it did look just like they behave in the open. However, it was only when we walked outside and saw over the surface of the aquarium that it is not as big as it appears and certainly especially the mantas whose wing tips are scratched from the constant turns against the walls were quite crammed in.

 The aquarium at Atlantis

Large manta ray in the Atlantis aquarium

We decided to go and get a coffee, as it was time for our daily espresso fix and sought out the Starbucks we’d seen in the Marina Village. We spent a very relaxing half an hour reading the papers and enjoying the air conditioning before returning to the heat and look at the other half of the Marina Village we’d missed earlier. There are several Discover Atlantis desks around where you can pay for entry for the day and it was here that we overheard that we were supposed to have paid $35 just to look at the aquarium and be allowed to buy lunch in the restaurants inside the complex! To use the waterslides and waterpark for which the hotel is also famous (a 1 mile long tube run up slide escalators through exhibits etc) would cost us $110 each. We decided this was a little pricey and the cruise ship tourist who we heard go to the desk just after and had only 4 hours to spend just kept repeating the price incredulously, so I gather he felt the same. The expression on the face of the assistant suggested she was also fairly used to this reaction. However, there were hundreds of people around everywhere we went so I guess someone must pay it. I think from looking online that a day pass is the most expensive way to visit.

Sting ray and Manta ray in the aquarium

We decided though that we hadn’t had enough air conditioning yet and went back to the casino where we spent sometime watching people playing black jack and poker which was very amusing and quite educational for me. The roulette was also excellent viewing especially the table with only two men playing which nonetheless they seem to bet on nearly every square before each ball roll and I’m no expert but the pile of chips being cleared each time was certainly bigger than those paid out. Also double zero which is apparently not a good thing from a gamblers perspective had according to the electronic board come up 4 times in the last 15 or so spins. We watched the game where you throw the dice on the green baize table which always seems to be in films but after watching for 15 minutes we still had absolutely no clue how it worked at all so lost interest in that one. Finally there was another area with a bank of tv screens and comfy chairs where you could bet on the days horse racing or what I think was American football or baseball games. They really had thought of dozens of ways for you to spend you money.

 Kevin at the aquarium – you can see the size of the manta ray by comparison

We headed back to the boat late afternoon which seem stinking hot after a mornings heavy air con usage. I decided to sleep my way through acclimatising as it was too painful to stay awake. About 5pm when I had come round and the temperature was more bearable I dug out some Eastern Caribbean coins and challenged Kevin to a game of Black Jack. It wasn’t pretty, though I did managed to win back my debts at one point.

 Atlantis – Aquarium surface

Bayshore Marina, Nassau, New Providence, Bahamas

Well, we were supposed to be on Paradise Island today, but I am in fact sat updating the blog on the boat. After a really sticky hot night, it is now pouring down such that we have to speak loudly to be heard over the noise. There were very low black clouds on the horizon when we got up so we thought we would wait. So for the moment rain has stopped play…

 Proper rain of the sort that gets you wet

Bayshore Marina, Nassau, New Providence, Bahamas

Our second cooking gas cylinder ran out today, so we were back on provisioning jobs. We wandered around the mall and looked for a few items we needed, but decided in the end it was probably best to wait for the States. We popped into the supermarket and got a few bits and pieces, I think having a large store at such a close distance is perhaps a little too handy! The gas man still hadn’t arrived to collect when we came back, so that would have to wait.

We are planning on a trip over to Paradise Island tomorrow, so,  decided to get a new DVD for the evening and an early night. 

Bayshore Marina, Nassau, New Providence, Bahamas

We had little planned for Sunday, I went out and spent the morning in the laundry at Nassau Yacht Haven with my book and then in the afternoon we both washed down the boat which was absolutely filthy. It has been a along time since we had free access to a hosepipe and it was great to get Invincible shiny and clean again. It started to pour down whilst we were doing it, but already fairly wet we decided to carry on. In the evening we watched a DVD and played some cards until the temperature moderated and we could get some sleep.

Bayshore Marina, Nassau, New Providence, Bahamas

We decided that we should see a little more of Nassau today so set off down Bay Street along the shore of the Nassau harbour into downtown Nassau. We could in the distance see cruise ships in dock, which seem to be daily here and meant we could expect it to be busy.

The Potters Cay area was first, an anchorage /  dock area with lots of tumble down looking houseboats and fishing trawlers on the inside of a large dock jutting out into the harbour. Next, we passed the two impressive span bridges going across to Paradise Island, one of which appears to be the toll bridge the other free. Bay Street then passes through the dock area, never the nicest area of a town, where there were shipping containers  pilled higher than the buildings which were fairly ramshackle. Still expecting something more of this supposed millionaire’s retreat we trudge further into town.

   Attractive square downtown Nassau  

When we started to see the white looking tourists we knew we were approaching the cruise ship territory and sure enough before long the shops were becoming smarter and mostly jewellers. The centre of Nassau has some nice colonial architecture and squares. The main area though is fairly small and mostly seemed to cater for cruise ship tourists rather than any local needs. Though perhaps the Fendi, Gucci and other designer stores is where the locals of Nassau do their shopping. The John Bull department store stands in the centre of downtown Bay Street and is apparently quite a local landmark, originating in 1929 and named after a character in a 1712 British satire, a stout English man wearing a top hat, waistcoat, knickerbockers and high boots. It has gone from stationers to high class retailer dealing in Rolex and Cartier.

Relics of the empire – statue of Queen Victoria, Nassau

The John Bull store, Bay Street Nassau

We walked all the way through town to the Hilton hotel and there found the US Embassy that we need to visit next week for our visas, conspicuous by the large Stars and Stripes flying outside and by the security which meant we couldn’t even approach the door to check we’d got the right place without being stopped. The female security guard was very helpful and told us that we were in the right place and to return for our appointment but with no cameras, phones, nail clippers, scissors, lighters etc.

Not having any immediate need for diamonds and Rolexes our only purchase of the day was a bottle of duty free gin. It was still really hot and sticky so we decided to walk the 2 miles back to the marina. Well more hobble in my case, my decision to wear proper shoes was obviously not a good one after a year in flip flops and there was little skin left on my heel by now.

Dedicated Bacardi store, Nassau

When we got back to the marina we decided to stop for refreshments at the Poop Deck, I had a club soda and Kevin a Kalik and they barely touched the sides after hours of walking in that heat. We stayed for a couple of drinks and our free conch fritters then headed back to the boat.

Former slave market, now the Pompey museum, Nassau

Bayshore Marina, Nassau, New Providence, Bahamas

We are getting short of water now and really should think about getting it filled. There is a fuel dock which can also supply water or a number of small docks where we could get a slip and refill there and perhaps stay a night or two. The lethargy of the heat continues to postpone a decision until mid-morning when an unusual northerly squall comes and finally trips our anchor which has survived a number of pirouettes in the last few days and this seems to precipitate some action.

I did manage to rouse the energy for a short trip ashore the day before to suss out water availability / dock fees and it seems that there is a fairly wide variation. We have been quoted from 75c/ft with $3 per day water to $2 per day with $10 water by neighbouring marinas. The more expensive one has a restaurant and laundrette, but there is nothing to stop you from visiting the facilities from the cheaper side. I had been offered the outside hammerhead in the cheaper marina, which although easy to get on to is likely to be swelly and was subject to the current occupant leaving today. I ran in on the dinghy to see (dockmasters VHF is not working and we don’t have a local phone) if it was available. The yacht hadn’t left but he offered me an inside hammerhead instead though it looked fairly tight. I collected the dinghy and went to see. It had a tight turn on the way in but looked ok.

When I get back to the boat, Kevin informs me that the boat beside us has had a routine boarding by the navy who are still onboard when I arrive. I am thrilled to see the guy waiting in the fast rib chasing down the jet skiers and telling them to slow down! We are pretty sure that we are going to be boarded too and decide that it would be impolitic to pull up the anchor straight away as planned and head to the marina. Sure enough within 10 minutes the rib is alongside us and a pleasant smiling naval representative is on board. He explains it is routine and could he see our clearance papers for the Bahamas. We provide these willingly, after paying $300 to enter it is reassuring to know there is recompense for those not voluntarily going to check in. We wait for the agonisingly slow speed of his form filling as he copies out details on to his boarding form and asks us a little about where we have been and where are going to. He then thanks us and his friend comes to collect him, he leaves us with best wishes and a receipt. We have not been boarded before and it is all a bit of an adventure for us, though we are puzzled that the American registered boat beside us was made to show every hold and locker to the officer and provide a full boat inspection when he didn’t go out of the cockpit on our boat. We learn later in a leaflet that there is no income tax in the Bahamas and all is made on import duties and business rates, perhaps this is why the American boats get more hassle. As we had come up through the Bahamas from the Caribbean we were of less interest.

We pulled up the anchor and I navigated Kevin in. Unfortunately the current was now running through the harbour with the breeze and we are crabbing sideways going down the channel. A large day catamaran is moored right on the corner and Kevin has a few heart stopping moments trying to negotiate  the current and the turn but nonetheless bring us in perfectly to the dock. The swell is pretty good where we are and the cockpit gets the breeze all day long with shade in the evening! Heaven. We decide to celebrate with a beer and maybe food at the Poop Deck restaurant overlooking the Nassau Yacht Haven next door. We find we have arrived for Happy Hour which means free entres and are treated to what we think are conch fritters with our drinks. We take a look at the menu but decide that $42 for a steak is pretty pricy for a fairly informal looking restaurant. Some English girls come into the bar shortly afterwards and it is refreshing to hear things converted to £UK, they make the same conclusion. We decide to walk the short distance to the mall for a takeaway and DVD instead.

We watch Defiance with Daniel Craig, a sort of Schindler’s List story which is good but it is still too warm to sleep when it finishes and we sit outside afterwards with a book. Foolishly I don’t put on mosquito spray first and after two bites I go indoors. Kevin remains outside and is curious to see a guy walk up and inspect our fenders, tugging on the lines. He asks if the guy is ok, he looks a little surprised and moves off. A security guard comes by later and chats, he asks if we are not going out. Hmm, hopefully that was just a because it is Friday night question. There is a stout padlock on the entrance to the dock and razor wire on the approaches, but you can’t do much about people with keys.

Nassau Harbour, New Providence, Bahamas

Another day on anchor in the harbour and again it is hot and sticky. Neither Kevin nor I slept at all well as the heat even at night is sweltering. Consequently by consensus, both tucked into good books we decide to do little / nothing at all today and just try to stay cool. There is quite an impressive squall in the afternoon and we both breath a sigh of relief as the sun is momentarily obscured by cloud. After the squall a perfect rainbow spans the harbour and I head out to get some photos.

  Rainbow over Nassau harbour

We have another resident barracuda stalking us under the boat and you regularly see him through the escape hatch in the heads lurking. Kevin also managed to get a great shot of an eagle ray gliding past the boat this morning, he has seen a couple recently, but you have to be really quick to get the camera in time.

 

Eagleray patrols the anchor chain

Nassau Harbour, New Providence, Bahamas

It is getting extremely hot in the Bahamas now as the summer comes and between the rain showers the humidity and heat is astonishing. The current running through the harbour also means that Invincible is turned to have the cockpit in the sun as it rises then in the evening turned again to be faced back into the sun. Despite having been in the tropics for nearly a year, we are both struggling with the heat and it is difficult to summon the enthusiasm to move let alone do anything. I vainly spend the morning trying to read in the shade and the breeze but the current isn’t quite strong enough to hold us steady and 5 minutes after getting into the shade the boat turns and you are full into the sun again. The wind has also reduced to almost nothing at the moment so even the breeze is flaky.

However, it seems that I managed to catch the prop again when we were in Allen Cay and the outboard is again not able to get to full revs without the prop slipping which is not much fun when operating in a busy harbour. Two teenage boys seeing me return to the dinghy dock the night before asked me if I wasn’t scared to get in the little boat, he said it was so small it could fit in the palm of his hand!  The outboard has also not been ticking over well recently, so definitely time for a service. We duly lift it onboard, luckily the helm seat works as a very good bench to support it in the swell and Kevin sets to work on first replacing the screws which he previously designed to do just what they did – work as a shear pin. Next, he changes the oil and replaces the spark plug. He gives it a quick start onboard, all seems well so we lift it back onto the dinghy and Kevin takes it for a spin. I can tell as he planes down the middle of the channel at full throttle that we must have had success and the tickover is also perfect when he brings it alongside.

We decide to take a walk ashore together, I also show Kevin round the mall and we decide to visit the dvd store and try and hire a film for the night. There seems to be no indication of price anywhere and I go to the counter to see if they will hire to us without an address. The assistant answers to say that there are no hires, they are all for sale at $6 each! We look around and there are all the latest releases, racks filled throughout the shop. They even have a section in the corner of pre-release films (e.g. Angels and Demons) though I am told that these are not good copies and they are not recommended. It slowly dawns on us that this is a high street store selling entirely copied DVDs! We wonder what on earth the copyright laws are in the Bahamas that this is done so blatantly. However, we decide that this is pretty good value and decide to get a couple to try out. Back on the boat they both play perfectly (Slumdog Millionaire and Quantum of Solace), so we have a great evening in with some new films.

Nassau Harbour, New Providence, Bahamas

Our first full day in Nassau but we have a couple of weeks here whilst we wait for our US visa appointment so we are in no rush. Before we start any sightseeing we have a few jobs to do. First priority this morning is to drop off our propane cylinder in the hope of getting it filled, otherwise we’ll be on salad and sandwiches for the next few weeks. I go ashore and drop off the cylinder and the lady at the chandlery says to come back before 5pm. I decide to explore a few of the chandleries nearby to see if we can get any of the spares we need and tick off some jobs before we get to Florida. After visiting three I quickly conclude that it will all have to wait for the three weeks before Alex and Sean arrive which is making our Cuba visit look more unlikely.

I pop to the supermarket again to pick up some things I forgot the day before and then head back to the boat. There is a constant stream of small power boats, big day charter and motorcruisers and the inevitable jet skis going back and forth all day. Some of these are more courteous than others about wake, so consequently every so often we are thrown about by a full beam on swell. The jet skis especially take great interest in causing mayhem and you can actually see them deviate off the channel to slalom through the anchorage, luckily they are quite modern jet skis with a relatively small wake.

The afternoon is again fairly wet and we both settle down to a book until eventually it clears and I run in again to see about our propane tank. However, now it is low water and there are no steps up from the dingy dock… cue quite elaborate balancing on the seat as the dinghy sways under me in the swell and I try and work out how to get up on to the shoulder height dock with unhelpful wooden tie up bar in the way. I eventually make it up but the manoeuvre is less than dignified, at least I was in shorts not a skirt and there was no one around. I walk in the shop and the lady immediately says “It’s done! That’s $10 please”, very relieved I pick it up on my way out. It weighs twice as much as the last fill and has a tag saying $15, but I don’t quibble.

Sunset over Nassau 

I get back to the boat and we have oven baked potato wedges for dinner to celebrate! There is a beautiful sunset and as the evening wears on the boat traffic gradually diminishes to a leave a very calm evening.

Sunset over Nassau

Nassau Harbour, New Providence, Bahamas

We made another early start on our trip across the Great Bahama Bank to Nassau, New Providence. This was to be our longest trip over the reef, though the navigation looked simple enough from the charts, average depth about 4m with two large reefs half way- yellow and white banks which we needed to pass between. We seemed to reach the first waypoint between the reefs in no time at all despite the drizzly rain and overcast day. I had just been saying well at least we won’t be meeting any big vessels out here in this shallow water…. when of course one arrived on the horizon.

The supply vessels in these waters are like landing craft and presumably have a fairly shallow draught. This one was approaching to starboard and on a course to pass between the reefs, we turned to starboard to avoid the collision which the steady approach angle indicated, he didn’t turn at all but to be fair was presumably hindered by the reefs. He was moving fairly slowly and we ended up having to run almost up to the south side of the reef then turn 90 degrees to pass behind him and pass through ourselves. Needless to say we saw no other large vessels that day, only in the 1 mile of our journey (of 36 miles) where there was an obstruction!

Entering Nassau harbour

Nassau harbour is actually a narrow channel between New Providence and Paradise Island, open at both east and west. We were expecting it to be really busy on the approaches but it actually wasn’t too bad and we were able to make our way in quite easily. However, even though this one of the busiest stretches of waters in the Bahamas there are still reefs to be avoided even with our draught. We ended up in a procession of a superyacht then us, then a monohull on the same slightly dog legged course in. We managed to get a place on anchor besides another catamaran off the side of the main channel between marinas.

The skyline of Nassau is dominated by the Atlantis resort with towers and turrets of pink sandstone. It is supposed to be quite a place to visit. There is a marina but it is intended for superyachts you aren’t allowed in if you are below 40ft in length. There is a large aquarium, water chutes, casino, nightclubs etc. The original building has been significantly expanded so I guess it does well. We will probably go and have a look around when we get ourselves settled. There are enormous villas on both sides overlooking the harbour and you can certainly see that there is wealth in Nassau.

Looking east in Nassau Harbour

The rest of the afternoon it poured down with rain so we stayed on board to tidy up etc. Eventually there was break long enough for me to run in and see if we could find anywhere to get cooking gas as we are about to completely run out. The road behind the marina has a number of chandleries and a shopping mall complete with Starbucks, KFC and Radio Shack, we are certainly out of the sticks now. I managed to find somewhere we could drop the cylinder off for filling the next day though no promises on whether they would have European fittings. I also popped to the supermarket for some treats to eat after weeks of the same sort of food. Kevin got a steak so he was happy, I got some fresh fruit and bagels. 

Large villas line the waterside in Nassau

Allen Cays, Exumas, Bahamas

A grey start to the day but we were up quite early so we decided we would make an early start to Highborne Cay, our next destination. We needed a few fresh supplies and this was the nearest place with a store and a good staging post for departing for Nassau across the Great Bahama Bank. We could see squalls all around us and opted for just the full genoa on our 20 miles north. We decided to take the Exuma Sound route, much more relaxing sailing and also less swell in these south easterly winds, so we entered the sound through The Wide Opening the widest of the cuts into Exuma Sound lying north of Warderick Wells.

A fairly quiet sail up the Sound, just a couple of motorcruisers around. Sporadic rain but none of the big squalls actually hit. In contrast with The Wide Opening, Highborne Cut was anything but and even though we arrived within 30 minutes of slack water it was still a simmering cauldron of water surrounding the many rocks strewn in the channel. You have to take a zigzag route through the channel before finally passing north or south of the islet at the end which lies directly in the channel. Highborne marina lies just off the side of the cut within the lower half of the H shaped island and I would guess has quite a considerable tidal flow through.

We anchored in the anchorage to the west of the island beside a superyacht and another catamaran. It was fairly blowing now with another squall passing close by and I didn’t really fancy the route back through the cut to the store in our dingy so Kevin got to go. I called them on the VHF as this is a private island to make sure it was open and check we were okay to come ashore. The marina is $1.95 - $2.50 per foot (£46 - £60 per night for us) making it one of the most expensive in the Bahamas. I guess we should have realised the effect on store prices. Kevin reported the marina to be very well built but fairly empty and the store to be immaculate but nothing was priced. There were tame nurse sharks in the marina and about half a dozen locals just sat around the entrance. I think it was our most expensive shopping so far – 2 loaves of bread $13, 8 beers $32.

Invincible at south Allans Cay anchorage

We decided as the anchorage was very rolly that we might move to Allen Cay. Our pilot book was so in favour of the marina that it briefly mentions an anchorage at Allen Cay but suggests if you want to see the resident iguanas that you should take you dinghy the 5 miles and moor in the marina. When we looked at the charts there is a north and south Allen’s Cay both formed into a horse shoe shape with the open ends opposite forming two very well protected anchorages – though obviously the advertising for these does not pay in the pilot book. We motored round the reef between Highborne and Allen’s Cay and took the southern anchorage to ourselves. The northern already had two yachts anchored but there was certainly room for more. It is a stunning location, secluded, uninhabited, ringed by beaches and wonderfully clear water.

Kevin feeds the iguanas

When in Allen Cay you have to go an see the resident iguanas which are believed to have existed throughout the Bahamas and Caribbean but are now on the endangered list having been a speciality for Arawak Indians and since then their habitats have been reduced by development especially along the beaches. We took the dingy in and were soon surrounded by about 10 iguanas of varying age and with red jowls. They do look quite fearsome and you are told if you wish to feed them it should be fruit or vegetables and you need to watch out for biting. Needless to say by now, Kevin went ashore with the lettuce and I took the camera.

Range of iguanas at Allens Cay

They didn’t seem very impressed with our offerings to be honest, but like on Big Majors Cay with the pigs, there was a resident gull population more than ready to pick up the scraps. I am not sure what their usual food is but they looked fairly well fed anyway and the range of young and old even on this tiny scrap of a southern cay is quite encouraging. We didn’t walk ashore, as the sand dunes behind the beach is apparently where they nest and these can easily be damaged by walking.

Ready to pounce on unsuspecting fingers

A pleasant afternoon, a few other boats came in, a couple of diving charter boats and a small motor boat from Florida with a young couple aboard that shared our anchorage overnight.

North Anchorage, Warderick Wells, Exuma Land & Sea Park

Our second day at Exuma Park, we had a bit of snorkelling and trekking planned. Visitors are provided with maps for both snorkel sites and the many marked trails on the island. We caught up on the blog and  couple of other jobs first so that we managed to time our walk as per usual during the heat of the day.

View from the dingy dock – note the people walking on the sand bar in the centre of the anchorage

Our walk today took us to the top of the highest point of the island only about 30m above sea level but still giving spectacular views. The trail takes you along the beach where the skeleton of a sperm whale has been reconstructed as a monument and learning tool, the whale was washed up locally with a stomach full of plastic waste. The tour then winds across the moonscape interior of lava bordered on each side by mangroves. There are actually many different types of vegetation and each are sign posted with detailed information, the ones such as mosquito and sandfly bushes I personally thought they could do without but I suppose you have to maintain the local ecosystem.

  Jo with our Invincible sign beside the Sperm Whale memorial

      View of North Anchorage from Boo Hill

When you are at the top of Boo Hill you can see the amazing blue crescent shaped channel of the northern anchorage. There is also an area where you can leave you boat name. Kevin had decorated the board that we got with Invincible when we picked her up, marking her as hull #86. However there was yet another sign saying that drift wood only could be left in case it blows away in a storm. We decided that was a fair point so didn’t leave our board as we didn’t find any drift wood to substitute. The legend goes that the hill is named Boo after the ghosts which can be heard singing hymns up there at night following the loss of a vessel with all hands over a hundred years before. There were some quite elaborate signs and it did make it feel like quite a special place.

Boat Names at the top of Boo Hill

We took a seat on the small makeshift bench up there to enjoy the view and acclimatise to the altitude. We were joined by a lizard who was very bold and I think would have eaten from our hands if we had food to offer. As it was he surveyed each of us in turn and posed for a few photos with his splendid curly tail.

Kevin and our lizard friend

Friendly Boo Hill lizard

Invincible  – Warderick Wells

We returned to the boat for some lunch before venturing out to Rangers Park a small reef at the north of the anchorage for a snorkel. There was a good selection of fish and coral on display and a couple of small rays. However, nothing as large as the eaglerays we had seen the night before. The current was beginning to pick up so we headed back to the boat for the rest of the afternoon.

Small ray at Ranger Park reef

Overnight there were some spectacular lightening and thunder again and a heavy downpour. The anchorage is extremely peaceful though and was again fully subscribed.