Manchioneel Bay, Salter Island, BVIs

Today we visited the Baths on Virgin Gorda and odd collection of boulders forming pools and caves along a section of coastline. We left Spanish Town anchorage early and were at one of the two remaining mooring balls by 7.30am. It was just as well as obviously that majority of the 90minute mooring balls had been used overnight.

Invincible at The Baths

We had a leisurely breakfast before we swam out across the bay to the further beach. The water was lovely and clear but compared to the relatively less dived sites of the last couple of days there was far less life. However, it is not surprising given the number of visitors arriving. We thought it was a no anchor area but later another dozen boats dropped anchor behind or alongside those on the moorings.

Swimming out to the beach

We enjoyed a swim between the boulders and up the lovely clean beach. We then followed signs past the Poor Man’s Bar (I guess it’s called that as you aren’t allowed to land dingies so everyone arrives by swimming without cash) towards the Cave and Devil’s Bay. The route takes you up, over, round and between various boulders some of which are 50-60ft high and sometimes through water as all of these are just along the shoreline and pools are formed inside the formations. The crowds meant we were behind one Spanish family and in front of an English and American family in a processional route through sometimes assisted by wooden steps and platforms. Despite the crowds it is quite a stunning natural phenomenon although my knowledge of geology does not explain how these apparently granite shapes were formed and so deposited.

Kevin in amongst the boulders

The route eventually opens out onto a lovely beach sheltered by more large boulders. The bay beyond was however now teaming with power boats which slightly disturbs the serenity.

We decided rather than take the narrow route back through the rocks against the flow we would follow the route to the car park. This lead up the hill behind through the shrub land teaming with lizards, cacti and even a small brown snake. A short cut which turned out to be longer than the route in but was rewarded with good views over the bay. We arrived back to the resort at the back of the first beach and made our way back to the boat for some peace, quiet and lunch!

Devil’s Bay at the end of the hike through the cave (salt on u/w camera case not soft focussing!)

Later in the afternoon we made the short motor along through the islands to Salter Island to position ourselves for a dive on RMS Rhone tomorrow. The bay has also been completely taken over by mooring buoys and not a spot to anchor remains so we took a buoy, most of which were filled already – perhaps it is due to the Easter holidays.

Devil’s Bay

Good news though, we have heard from the US Embassy in Nassau, we can apply for our US visa there. Lucky we contacted them so soon as there is a three month wait for an appointment.

Spanish Town, Virgin Gorda, BVIs

We were having breakfast in the cockpit this morning off Necker Island when Kevin spotted that we were being stalked by a large fish just underneath the surface and behind the boat. We’d also seen it the previous afternoon and it had hovered around for quite a few minutes before disappearing again. We were trying to work out what it was and I just managed to get a photo by dipping the camera in the underwater case over the side to get a lucky shot and find out it was a large barracuda.

Being stalked by a barracuda

Today the Invincibles were going to the Invisibles! This is a reef and a group of rocks which are just awash and presumably from their name have caused some mischief in the past. We were getting the dive gear ready when Kevin spotted a flock of pink flamingos flying over the boat! We really felt with this we had seen it all in the short time we had been here. They flew round Necker island and then landed on a small idyllic looking sand spit complete with palm trees just in front of the island. We finished getting the kit ready and motored round where luckily they were still feeding at the shore.

Pink Flamingos feeding

Pink Flamingos at Necker Island

We found the Invisibles okay and were pleased to find a national park mooring ball there for us to use, so we tied up. I was first to dive and at first the flat bottom with lots of soft coral but not so many fish didn’t look so promising but then as I saw the rocks towering above me in the distance I saw the shoals of fish surrounding it. There were jacks and tuna, lots of reef fish and various others which I cannot name. As I rounded the north east edge of the rocks a reef shark came into view chasing another fish and soon disappearing away. Over to the slightly flatter ground shelving deeper there were big schools of yellow jacks and then a couple of big black grouper with bug-like eyes which came very close to inspect me before heading off. Finally another barracuda (some relation?) was hovering under the boat when I returned.

Fish soup at the Invisibles

Kevin was next in the water taking the camera with him. He didn’t manage to see the shark but he did get to see a turtle in close quarters that he got a great photo of. We both really enjoyed the dive and are looking forward to doing a few more in the BVIs before we head on.

Turtle close up

Back to Spanish Town this evening so that we can get into The Baths early before the crowds arrive. We had to motorsail all the way from Necker Island with very little wind, but no swell either. There were quite a few boats anchored here, we were amused again to see a few familiar ones and we enjoyed trying to remember where we saw them last.

Necker Island, BVIs

  Kevin had decided we should get away from the crowds and get some diving in and suggested that we move round to Necker Island just to the north west of North Sound, Virgin Gorda. Necker Island is famous for being owned by Sir Richard Branson and although you are allowed to anchor off, due to the surrounding reefs not many boats visit.

Invincible at Necker Island

Unfortunately it was overcast from east to west when we got up in the morning which was not good to negotiate reefs when you need bright sunlight. Luckily by waiting a couple of hours the sky cleared, we filled our water tank and got our ice.

Necker Island

 

Clear waters at Necker Island anchorage

There was one other yacht in the anchorage when we arrived at Necker Island but we managed to get a spot closer in giving us both plenty of privacy. The water was again crystal clear and Kevin went in to check the anchor. Ten minutes later I am still waiting for him to come up and tell me if it’s ok. He seems transfixed on the seabed. It turned out he’d seen a large ray that had gone over to investigate what might have been dug up by our anchor and chain. The anchor is fine though so I make some lunch but Kevin is hooked now and goes off snorkelling.

Nurse shark

He comes back to announce he’s seen a shark! We have lunch then set off with the camera for another look. The reef is teaming with fish and the small nurse shark is still on the bottom, as is the ray under the boat. We spend a bit of time exploring before returning to Invincible.

Ray under the boat

Invincible at Necker Island

Later in the afternoon, the other boat leaves and the constant stream of mini ferries and posh RIBs stops ripping past Invincible at full steam and we have a lovely quiet night under the stars alone on the anchorage with just a few lights ashore.

Saba Rock, North Sound, BVIs

Today we took advantage of a reasonable Wifi signal included in our mooring fees to try and do a few jobs. The main one of which was to settle our route plan for the next few months. We are keen to see the Bahamas but need to plan for somewhere for the hurricane season so were researching this and flights for Alex to come and see us. We didn’t quite manage to come to a final decision as we need to find out some more about a US visa to perhaps take Invincible to the US Intercoastal for hurricane season.

I also downloaded Windows Live Writer which I can now use for composing the blog offline and it make publishing photos far less painful when on a poor connection. Also it has whizzy maps and things which I will play with.

Saba Rock from west (The red roofs)

Bitter End Yacht Club, Virgin Gorda, BVI

Having caught up on some sleep overnight we decided to go and do some more exploring which in the BVIs is all done by boat, with lots of anchorages and attractions close to the shore. One of the most famous is probably The Baths on Virgin Gorda, large boulders make interesting pools in clear water for excellent snorkelling. However we were a bit slow starting following the broken sleep of the previous night and by the time we arrived at The Baths which are only 5 minutes from Spanish Town the place was inundated and all mooring balls were taken (protected area of no anchoring).

Not to be perturbed we decided to hoist the sails and head to North Sound a large lagoon created by the mainland of Virgin Gorda and outlying islands (Gun Creek on map below).  It was easily the nicest sail we have had I think since we picked the boat up. The water round between Virgin Islands is like a lake with no swell and just a gentle breeze. We glided along the water and before we knew it we were approaching the first passage into the Sound.

I think North Sound must be and old crater because it can only be accessed by two passages all of the gaps between the islands are joined by reefs.

The Bitter End Yacht Club is quite famous in yachting circles so we felt we ought to go and see. Unfortunately the anchorage is now completely covered in mooring buoys so you can’t anchor anywhere close. We decided to take a mooring and head ashore. It is actually a fairly exclusive resort rather than a Yacht club but has a few bars, a minimarket, souvenir shops etc. We were mistaken into thinking we may get some access to facilities for using one of the their moorings (20$USD) a night. Actually if you want to use the pool it is another 10$USD per visitor. We stopped for a beer, at the English Pub which was 5$USD a bottle, though Kevin did manage to get a pint of draught Strongbow cider that he enjoyed!

We had also seen a rock with a resort perched on it alongside which looked nice, we thought we would go over. At Saba Rock you get a tank full of water and a bag of ice for the mooring ball fee, so we decided as our tanks were nearly empty we would stop there the next night.

The Bitter End Yacht Club is on the further hill

Spanish Town, Virgin Gorda, British Virgin Islands

We anchored at Spanish Town, Virgin Gorda, the water was the clearest we had seen anywhere and two turtles swan around behind the boat. We’d heard much about the BVIs and it all appeared to be true. We got a couple of hours of sleep then headed in to check in with customs and immigration.

We went in the the office and diligently waited in front of the Immigration window as directed by signs. Three customs officials milled around, plus two cashiers but no one was in the Immigration department. An older sailor beside us also waited patiently, he’d apparently been given the forms to complete but since then the official had disappeared. Four more sailors arrived. We all waited. We could see someone in uniform stood around doing nothing outside. 40 minutes after arriving a surly young official (the one who’d been outside) reluctantly returned to his seat and asked with all the petulance of a stroppy teenager if he could help. Knowing that any signs of displeasure on our part would make our checking in extremely hard, we smiled and asked for the forms. The rest was completed fairly quickly and the fees were not as much as we had expected. However, it was hard not to see the deliberate waiting as anything other than a power game.

We had lunch at a cafe in the marina and had a walk round the nicely landscaped marina and the little shops behind before returning to the boat. When we got back we had a lovely afternoon snorkelling around the boat. I could not believe the water clarity and the number of fish.

Passage from Sint Maarten to British Virgin Islands

On Wednesday although still not feeling 100% we decided to depart for the BVIs, thinking that recovery would be dramatically increased by getting off the rolly anchorage of Simpson Bay.

We departed in the early afternoon for a leisurely overnight sail in light winds and little swell. There were few boats around during the afternoon and we started the night watches expecting a quiet night. I took the 6-9pm watch and Kevin was also up for a short while, a cruise liner passed but at a good distance which is just as well because with all the lights they carry on every deck it is impossible to make out any navigation lights to indicate which direction they are headed. I went to get to sleep telling Kevin all was quiet. Whilst I slept Kevin was inundated, first by two American yachts tacking in tandom across our course and not answering the radio. Then by a succession of other yachts all on a nearly reciprocal course, the last of which passing very close just as I came up on watch. Needless to say, as soon as I came on watch it all went quiet, all I saw was the lights of Tortola / Virgin Gorda of the BVIs approaching.

When Kevin arrived back on watch at 3am, he decided to heave-to for a while so that we could make the pass between the islands in daylight. This time he had a cruise ship come quite close, though not as close as to another nearby yacht who called the captain on the radio, only to be told he was seen on radar no problem, he was going to Tortola. The yacht replied that so was he but did he have to come so close? The Officer of the Watch was not to be deviated and passed very close only to then heave to himself a couple of miles further on to wait behind another cruise ship for daylight to dock!