After a bit of a false start due to worse than predicted weather, we finally arrived in Dominican Republic today after a long passage from the British Virgin Islands of 354 miles. We did take the “scenic route” by passing south of Puerto Rico in order to minimise the time sailing along a lee shore and to gain some shelter from the swell. This also gave us a sight seeing tour of the Spanish Virgin islands. Our ultimate destination was for Turks and Caicos (seen on the map below in the top left, obscured) and we had planned to do the journey in one trip, as we have no US visa to visit Puerto Rico and our insurance excluded us for visiting the Dominican Republic it had to be all or nothing. However, we contacted our insurance before we left to ask is a waiver would be granted in the event of emergency or bad weather, as it was going a long trip without possible shelter. Luckily, they replied with the usual quick efficiency to say they had written to us already to say all exclusions were now lifted, so not only could we visit Dominican Republic but also Cuba which we both really wanted to see but did not think we would be able and the planning started straightaway about when we might fit that in.
We were still not sure we would stop in Dominican Republic as it doesn’t get a great press in some ways in the UK, because the main visitors visit All Inclusive resorts and are told that the surrounding area is so dangerous you should not leave. We therefore took recorded the waypoints of a couple of large marinas with security to be on the safe side and left.
The journey itself was not our most enjoyable yet, the lee of Puerto Rico was nice and sheltered, but so sheltered we had to motor for 8 hours. We were visited by a US Border Control and Coastguard vessel as soon as we were within 6 miles of the island to record our boat name and remind us politely that would be required to check in if we stopped. We decided we wouldn’t be messing with them in their super fast patrol boat with four large outboards astern and carried on along the coast as planned.
We both thought we saw shaped like whales just touching the surface along the south coast of Puerto Rico through the afternoon, but never a clear enough sighting to be absolutely clear. By daybreak we were turning north up the Mona Passage between Puerto Rico and Dominican Republic, so wide you cannot see both sides at the same time. We now felt the full force of the 25 knot tradewinds some over the shelving west coast of Puerto Rico making short steep and unpleasant beam seas regularly drenching us. Kevin did manage to catch a good sized tuna but with the pitching of the boat we decided that we would not be able to prepare it and so we let him go and pulled in the rods.
We turned off to the west keeping a respectful distance off the lee shore of Dominican Republic, now pretty much decided we would stop in despite the £100 customs / immigration /port /navy fees as we were cold and tired and the thought of a secure mooring in a marina and a long hot shower was too much! This would be the first night in a marina since February and that for our visitors. Luckily, by Saturday morning the weather had calmed considerably and Kevin could even get his fishing rods out again as the signs of fish had been all around us tormenting him all the way. He was rewarded within an hour with a large Mahi Mahi / Dorado, the fish fought valiantly spectacularly jumping clear of the water 2 or 3 times in his attempts to escape but Kevin wasn’t giving him up. My job is to get the other rods in whilst this was all happening, which caused me a bit of when the rod I was reeling in suddenly got a bite too. Dorados are famous for travelling in pairs and this was obviously the mate biting too, I was quite relieved though when it got off again soon after.
Kevin proudly demonstrating his latest catch
We finally approached the marina at 12.30pm and were pleasantly surprised when the actually answered the VHF. Ocean World is a big complex with a cinema and large dolphin pools, sea lions etc theme park alongside. We were met by at the very substantial concrete slip by three attendants after some excellent directions given to get us in. Unfortunately the attendants didn’t seem too skilled in actually tying boats up running back and forth with lines apparently unclear where to put it until we gave some very direct instructions and we were tied up. Roberto the concierge introduced himself straightway in perfect English and explained that the authorities would be here soon to clear us in, as in Dominican Republic they visit you on your boat.
Very smart marina office complex
We were however quite surprised when 6 people then turned up to board the boat! They were however all very friendly and smiled frequently (almost unknown in officials until now). We had representatives of customs (x2, one per form to be completed), the drug enforcement agency, the navy, the agriculture dept and the other concierge from the marina to assist! I sat them round the saloon table and passed the documents required as they filled the forms in themselves, which was nice for a change. I was really pleased to practice my Spanish speaking again and they seemed genuinely thrilled I was trying although I had forgotten so much already my attempts were pitiful. Kevin tactically found lots of line and fender adjustments to do during this time, turning up just in time to provide his Captain’s signature.
Invincible in the shadow of the casino (right) and sea lion show (left)
We were still awaiting our Immigrations clearance but were assured that we were ok to leave the boat and that the official would try and find us when he could over the next couple of days. It was almost worth the fees to have everything so much at our convenience for a change.
We headed straight for the showers, which were hot and had a good pressure, also a rare treat! The marina office building, like the rest of the marina is pristine being newly built although the marina itself is almost empty. We discovered one of the potential reasons for that when we got back to the boat and the one of the sea lion shows had started behind the boat, where they clap and balance balls, stand on their fins etc. The music was loud and repetitive, but it was actually quite amusing to be able to watch the show from the boat.
We went for a beer and food at the restaurant and realised we didn’t even know the exchange rate or have any currency. Like everywhere we have been to though they were happy to take US dollars. We asked the waiter and he said 7.37 which would make Kevin’s beef burger £25! We thought we must have misunderstood and asked the waitress too, her calculation made it £5. We were hungry and so risked it anyway and in the end, 4 drinks and 2 meals cost £30. We then retired to the boat even though it was barely dark and slept very very soundly.
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