After a light breakfast my first job this morning was to be winched up the mast by Kevin, thankfully not Ellen McArthur style in full on gale in Southern Oceans, but in a calm marina in the Canaries. Nonetheless, still seems like a fair way up. My job was to fit circular plastic disks above the spreaders (part of mast support hardware), which are aimed to ease the passage of the genoa (front) sail across when tacking. We saw lots of the delivery crews fitting them in La Rochelle, as the protruding structure on a catamaran can cause wearing on the sail after a while. We had been waiting for the right conditions in order to fit them, but it has become like the old nautical superstition of whistle on board, every time we plan to do it the next day it is really windy. Luckily after waking up to pretty strong winds which had been blowing through the night it actually calmed down after breakfast.
The other plan was perhaps to hire a car tomorrow to allow us to explore Fuerteventura a little more. Unfortunately when I visited the tourist information booth it appears that there are no car hire firms in Gran Tarajal. This I managed to communicate to the non-English speaking guide by making steering wheel motions with my hands as I didn’t think my discussion of the relative prices of tobacco would quite do the trick. So tomorrow looks like being a local bus trip to Las Playitas a nearby fishing village along the coast which we passed coming here instead.
Monday, 30 June 2008
Sunday, 29 June 2008
Gran Tarajal
We decided to observe the Sunday day of rest principle and have a day off from boat jobs, cleaning etc. We had a leisurely start with some reading in bed followed by a cheese and tomato omelette for breakfast. Kevin was reaching the end of “The Mauritius Command” book four of the Patrick O’Brien series and so was not to be disturbed as there were apparently various battles and other manly naval pursuits occurring. I contented myself with my Spanish lessons from my new book, completing the first four lessons in my new exercise book, just like school! The book is a Spanish production and apparently aims to teach you as you would have learned your native language, the first half is passive which means reading and repeating. By lesson 3 I was already learning such useful phrases as:
¿Usted fumar? – Do you smoke?
¿Quiere un cigarro? – Do you want a cigarette?
El tabaco rubio, en España, es caro – The light tobacco, in Spain, is expensive
El tabaco negro cuesta mucho menos – The black tobacco costs much less
Tiene usted razón – You are right
I am already feeling I could walk into any bar in town and start a conversation, as surely you look like a real local if you can complain about prices in the local language. I think perhaps though, I will save such questioning to when accompanied, not least because I don’t actually smoke and I suppose such conversation maybe misconstrued.
After a light lunch of pasta and pesto, followed by more reading we headed off to find an internet café to give my sister a call from one of the telephone booths whilst Kevin did internet browsing. Next we head to the town beach about 3pm, after the heat of the day had abated. The whole town seems to congregate on the beach and there is a real sense of community with everyone chatting and the children all playing together. The sand is a darker colour having a high percentage of black volcanic sand in it, which makes it really hot to walk on by the afternoon I discovered. Kevin continued with his stories of naval battles, whilst I headed out for a swim. The water is really warm along the beach and there were lots of families and children enjoying cooling off in the water. The sand is fine and sticks to you quite well especially when wet, which gives the impression of being covered in mud from a distance and so you regularly see kids running round looking absolutely filthy clearly really enjoying themselves.
When we’d had enough sun we had a cooling couple of beers on the seafront before heading back to the boat. I was on galley duty and prepared Spaghetti Bolognese (made with Beanfeast quorn mince – a must for boat stocks as it keeps forever), then “Flan” a local dish you see in every restaurant which taste a bit like crème brulee one of Kevin’s favourites (which we have discovered comes in packet mix form). We ate on the cockpit table (outside) as the wind was light this evening with a glass or two of a Don Simon red (from a carton obviously), it’s very quiet and peaceful at the marina at the moment as there are very few people around as it’s still fairly early in the season for the Canaries.
We finished off the evening with a new game from our Chambers Card Games book which I got free from a book club. Last night was Gin Rummy, which was quite fiercely competitive and went on until about 1am, with a very comfortable victory for Kevin. We heard again lots of car horns and cheering later on in the evening, so assume another football win for Spain?
¿Usted fumar? – Do you smoke?
¿Quiere un cigarro? – Do you want a cigarette?
El tabaco rubio, en España, es caro – The light tobacco, in Spain, is expensive
El tabaco negro cuesta mucho menos – The black tobacco costs much less
Tiene usted razón – You are right
I am already feeling I could walk into any bar in town and start a conversation, as surely you look like a real local if you can complain about prices in the local language. I think perhaps though, I will save such questioning to when accompanied, not least because I don’t actually smoke and I suppose such conversation maybe misconstrued.
After a light lunch of pasta and pesto, followed by more reading we headed off to find an internet café to give my sister a call from one of the telephone booths whilst Kevin did internet browsing. Next we head to the town beach about 3pm, after the heat of the day had abated. The whole town seems to congregate on the beach and there is a real sense of community with everyone chatting and the children all playing together. The sand is a darker colour having a high percentage of black volcanic sand in it, which makes it really hot to walk on by the afternoon I discovered. Kevin continued with his stories of naval battles, whilst I headed out for a swim. The water is really warm along the beach and there were lots of families and children enjoying cooling off in the water. The sand is fine and sticks to you quite well especially when wet, which gives the impression of being covered in mud from a distance and so you regularly see kids running round looking absolutely filthy clearly really enjoying themselves.
When we’d had enough sun we had a cooling couple of beers on the seafront before heading back to the boat. I was on galley duty and prepared Spaghetti Bolognese (made with Beanfeast quorn mince – a must for boat stocks as it keeps forever), then “Flan” a local dish you see in every restaurant which taste a bit like crème brulee one of Kevin’s favourites (which we have discovered comes in packet mix form). We ate on the cockpit table (outside) as the wind was light this evening with a glass or two of a Don Simon red (from a carton obviously), it’s very quiet and peaceful at the marina at the moment as there are very few people around as it’s still fairly early in the season for the Canaries.
We finished off the evening with a new game from our Chambers Card Games book which I got free from a book club. Last night was Gin Rummy, which was quite fiercely competitive and went on until about 1am, with a very comfortable victory for Kevin. We heard again lots of car horns and cheering later on in the evening, so assume another football win for Spain?
Saturday, 28 June 2008
Thursday 26th – Gran Tarajal
We were both keen in the morning to get away from Puerto Castillo as soon as possible, the motor cruiser next to us had been running his engines since 8am which acted as a wake up call, so perhaps he was intending to use this to keep him off the pontoon instead of buying decent lines?! We begrudgingly went to pay our fees, as the misleading information was not done by the marina but by the pilot guides and you have to wonder if they’d actually been.
Walking up the office (portacabin at the end of the pontoons), we realised that the small pool (approx 20ft by 8ft) beside the wood hut was where they were keeping two large sealions at least for part of the day (presumably in the hut by night). There was also a parrot with a small piece of tarpaulin for shade day and night at the end of the pirate ship in an old iron bird cage. Even more horrible, not even sure how it’s legal.
We paid and left immediately, then thankfully had a lovely morning sail down the coast before turning the corner at Punta Lantailla light house.
Punta Lantailla Lighthouse (taken through binoculars)
Here it is worth noting that you get an acceleration effect as you pass south of Las Playitas, the pilots don’t seem to mention it at all, but it went from 15 knots before that point to upto 28 knots of wind, luckily we were reefed anyway, so just put some genoa away, but it made it rather exciting putting the main down, as it didn’t even abate coming into the harbour entrance, we were still reading 20+ knots inside the harbour. The bay wasn’t really any better sheltered otherwise we might have anchored up to wait it out. We were struggling to find a suitable berth, (although there are plenty free, again they were quite short for us), luckily we heard a whistle and the harbour master motioned us in to a berth and helped with lines.
Las Playitas (taken through binoculars)
There were a few other cruising boats around, it looked like a good spot, with apparently new pontoons and electric and water. The harbourmaster enquired if we were just staying 1 night and when we said 7, he just said to come and see him manana to check in, perfect!
We had a look round the town, I was expecting a village from the pilot guides, but it is actually a small town. Very Spanish feel to it, not an English voice to be heard and perhaps to correlate to that the cheapest place we have been to so far! Our favourite wine cartons for example between 90cents (Corralejo) to 1.17Euro (Marina Rubicon) are 66 cents here! Infact, there was an offer on for 4 for 3, which mean there was 4 for 2 Euros! That’s less than 50p for a bottle of wine!
We went to the café at the side of the Fisherman’s Cooperative which we are learning is a great place for cheap fresh food for lunch about 2 pm. The café was full and we ordered according to what looked good on other tables, so we shared a “baby squid ends” starter (they had an English translation on the menu, which usually find a shame, but it was worth it for the phraseology!). We barely managed half the enormous plateful they brought between us, then they brought out tuna steaks about 1 lb each with salad and local potatoes, cooked in seawater as they were very very salty. It was really excellent meal which including drinks was 30 Euros.
We head back to the boat as the other thing about Gran Tarajal is that it appears to be a complete suntrap, perhaps just because the town is south facing, the volcanic rocks surrounding adsorbing the heat I’m not sure, but 34 degrees here yesterday afternoon, you can feel the heat rising up from the pavements. We had a siesta after all that food before heading out for some food shopping in the Euro Spar (no Hiper Dino as per the pilot guides) to stock up on wine when the heat had died down! Kevin was also itching to visit the chandlery which has become something of an obsession in each port, though I gather from other blogs this is fairly normal behaviour!
I am afraid that the Euro 2008 competition has kind of passed us by, neither of us being football fans. However, whilst we were watching a DVD, we kept hearing intermittent cheering, followed for about 3 hours by cheering and car horns blaring. Can only imagine that Spain has won a match of significance!! If anyone wants to fill us in with a comment on the blog, we may even go along to the next game!
Walking up the office (portacabin at the end of the pontoons), we realised that the small pool (approx 20ft by 8ft) beside the wood hut was where they were keeping two large sealions at least for part of the day (presumably in the hut by night). There was also a parrot with a small piece of tarpaulin for shade day and night at the end of the pirate ship in an old iron bird cage. Even more horrible, not even sure how it’s legal.
We paid and left immediately, then thankfully had a lovely morning sail down the coast before turning the corner at Punta Lantailla light house.
Punta Lantailla Lighthouse (taken through binoculars)
Here it is worth noting that you get an acceleration effect as you pass south of Las Playitas, the pilots don’t seem to mention it at all, but it went from 15 knots before that point to upto 28 knots of wind, luckily we were reefed anyway, so just put some genoa away, but it made it rather exciting putting the main down, as it didn’t even abate coming into the harbour entrance, we were still reading 20+ knots inside the harbour. The bay wasn’t really any better sheltered otherwise we might have anchored up to wait it out. We were struggling to find a suitable berth, (although there are plenty free, again they were quite short for us), luckily we heard a whistle and the harbour master motioned us in to a berth and helped with lines.
Las Playitas (taken through binoculars)
There were a few other cruising boats around, it looked like a good spot, with apparently new pontoons and electric and water. The harbourmaster enquired if we were just staying 1 night and when we said 7, he just said to come and see him manana to check in, perfect!
We had a look round the town, I was expecting a village from the pilot guides, but it is actually a small town. Very Spanish feel to it, not an English voice to be heard and perhaps to correlate to that the cheapest place we have been to so far! Our favourite wine cartons for example between 90cents (Corralejo) to 1.17Euro (Marina Rubicon) are 66 cents here! Infact, there was an offer on for 4 for 3, which mean there was 4 for 2 Euros! That’s less than 50p for a bottle of wine!
We went to the café at the side of the Fisherman’s Cooperative which we are learning is a great place for cheap fresh food for lunch about 2 pm. The café was full and we ordered according to what looked good on other tables, so we shared a “baby squid ends” starter (they had an English translation on the menu, which usually find a shame, but it was worth it for the phraseology!). We barely managed half the enormous plateful they brought between us, then they brought out tuna steaks about 1 lb each with salad and local potatoes, cooked in seawater as they were very very salty. It was really excellent meal which including drinks was 30 Euros.
We head back to the boat as the other thing about Gran Tarajal is that it appears to be a complete suntrap, perhaps just because the town is south facing, the volcanic rocks surrounding adsorbing the heat I’m not sure, but 34 degrees here yesterday afternoon, you can feel the heat rising up from the pavements. We had a siesta after all that food before heading out for some food shopping in the Euro Spar (no Hiper Dino as per the pilot guides) to stock up on wine when the heat had died down! Kevin was also itching to visit the chandlery which has become something of an obsession in each port, though I gather from other blogs this is fairly normal behaviour!
I am afraid that the Euro 2008 competition has kind of passed us by, neither of us being football fans. However, whilst we were watching a DVD, we kept hearing intermittent cheering, followed for about 3 hours by cheering and car horns blaring. Can only imagine that Spain has won a match of significance!! If anyone wants to fill us in with a comment on the blog, we may even go along to the next game!
Wednesday 25th – Puerto Castillo
We were up early to get the boat ready for departure, hand in electrical connections and keys for deposits etc before my parents, Angelo & Michelle joined us to say our goodbyes. They very kindly presented us with a coffee pot, plus coffee and storage jar after Kevin had admired theirs at the villa the night before to get his shot of expresso in the morning as he has now gone quite native! We said goodbye until probably October when they are out again to the villa, though we will by then be over at the other side of the Canaries group, they plan to come and visit. They also kindly took some pictures as we departed as we haven’t any pictures of Invincible at sea, so we waved our goodbyes at the harbour wall.
We had aimed to get as far as Gran Tarajal on Wednesday, it is described in the pilot guide as offering “a glimpse of the island as it must have been before the tourist boom took off”, which sounded just like our kind of place. However, it was 44 miles from Marina Rubicon, so a fair sail and we did not set off until nearly lunchtime after saying our goodbyes and clearing out at the marina, so by about 5pm after a choppy day’s sail in swelly conditions, we opted on plan B, Puerto Castillo, a private marina / complex which offered swimming pools and saunas, harbour “little visited by tourists”, 97 berths for boats up to 16m, “attractive beach which will soon need to start operating a queuing system”. Well, I am writing this having arrived at Gran Tarajal and I must say how wrong they have been in their descriptions! Puerto Castillo is easily the worst marina we have ever been to and no one used to rave about Fleetwood much when we were they, but at least their facilities were clean and pontoons level and useable. The office at Castillo is supposed to close at either 7 pm or 8 pm according to the pilot guides which advocated arranging a berth in advance, just after 5pm I tried them by VHF then phone, the guy answered the phone didn’t want to talk to us, just said pull up at the fuel berth, not even asking our boat length.
The fuel berth turns out to be a concrete wall nestled between a the rocky end of the breakwater and the overhanging anchor of a big motor cruiser and when I say nestled, we had about 6ft either side when we were moored. I am still not sure how Kevin managed it in the 25 knot winds and we did sustain a slight scratch to the topsides on the bow. Then the security guy decided to turn up and directs us to a berth opposite, well it’s actually the end of a pontoon without a finger berth on it at an angle of 10-15 degrees list. Coming of this wall with the wind blowing us on was even more hairy with little comfort being available in either choice of rocks or bow/anchor at each side having to clear the beam of a large motor cruiser and not really being able to spring off the wall easily with no cleats available. The security guy did go over to the pontoon to take our lines, (which is just as well as the berth was too short for our boat so the usual approach of me stepping off the stern to moor that we usually employ was not possible, it’s a 4ft drop off the sides without a step which is awkward to say the least when mooring in those conditions. Kevin brought us alongside and by now there was also a man and a woman on the pontoon to assist. I threw stern line to the security guard then bow line to the other guy, both of whom preceeded to try and hold the boat under motor themselves rather than fastening round a cleat, after miming the wrapping round the cleat action, they both proceeded to let the lines gradually run through under the cleat without attempting to wrap it round, so we are now about 8ft of the pontoon in a very strong wind in berth too short, having just had a hell of a time getting off a nasty wall berth! Arrgghh, eventually we get them to lock the lines down on the cleats and between pulling in the lines and Kevin motoring us back and forth we managed to get moored up. We pay the security guy a 20 Euro deposit for the swipe card access as apparently by 5.30 the office is shut. Kevin is now quite understandably in need of a beer, so we secure the boat and head ashore. The man that helped us with the lines is still stood at the end of the pontoon looking out to sea and talking into his mobile. The pontoons lead up to a very unattractive aluminium fencing about 8 ft height, behind which is a small pool created by pontoons and a wooden hut, then another pool in which is moored (from what you can see through the grills) a very tired looking “pirate” ship. We proceed up the pontoons through the portacabin on the end and out to a café overlooking more 8 ft fencing on the other side. There are two people in the café, we wander round but failed to find the showers which reputedly our swipe card provides access. We settle for a beer or two in the rather scruffy looking café/bar/restaurant. I only realised a little later when I go to the filthy toilets (akin to a service station, over flowing bins, broken tiles etc) that one of the two cubicles has a swipe card access and there is a very large water heater mounted on the wall above head height. I assume that was the shower, though I had no intention of trying it. I wouldn’t imagine that you can get to the toilets at night either and clearly you’d be sharing the one available with the café clients (though I suppose luckily there weren’t many of them). Absolutely horrible, facilities awful, ridiculously overpriced at 30 Euros a night (more than Puerto Calero!!!). I assume that there may have been access to a swimming pool on the resort somewhere, though it must be quite a walk as we didn’t see it, presumably you have to get the mini train thing parked outside.
We went back to the boat for a nice meal on board (mushroom spaghetti), though the man was still on the end of the pontoon looking in on us, as chose the moment we sat down to eat to ask if Kevin could take the lines of his son when he arrived at the berth next to us. We agreed and sat down to relax… later to be joined by two men fishing off the end of the pontoon apparently for shrimp until after dark. I guess it is a disadvantage of the deck level saloon in terms of privacy, but you don’t usually have people stood all evening at the end of the finger pontoon that you are moored on. Better was yet to come however, when Kevin got up in the morning to find a visitation of about 6 fisherman, one of whom was just about to climb on board our boat and seemed a bit put out when Kevin told him not to!
The man’s son finally turned up at about 11.30pm, so he’d have had a 6 hour wait at the end of the pontoon if he’d hung around, clearly not so good at calculating his ETA. I certainly wouldn’t have come in to the bay which is unlit and surrounded by reefs on both sides of the entrance at night, but I guess he must have been local. Kevin went to help (he was still on about the 4th rewatch of Band of Brothers so no problem). The guy offered up a line which appeared to be washing line or something similar to Kevin to moor up his ~26ft motor cruiser, luckily his father turned up so Kevin left them to it. The engines were still running 30 minutes later, so I guess there were problems.
We had aimed to get as far as Gran Tarajal on Wednesday, it is described in the pilot guide as offering “a glimpse of the island as it must have been before the tourist boom took off”, which sounded just like our kind of place. However, it was 44 miles from Marina Rubicon, so a fair sail and we did not set off until nearly lunchtime after saying our goodbyes and clearing out at the marina, so by about 5pm after a choppy day’s sail in swelly conditions, we opted on plan B, Puerto Castillo, a private marina / complex which offered swimming pools and saunas, harbour “little visited by tourists”, 97 berths for boats up to 16m, “attractive beach which will soon need to start operating a queuing system”. Well, I am writing this having arrived at Gran Tarajal and I must say how wrong they have been in their descriptions! Puerto Castillo is easily the worst marina we have ever been to and no one used to rave about Fleetwood much when we were they, but at least their facilities were clean and pontoons level and useable. The office at Castillo is supposed to close at either 7 pm or 8 pm according to the pilot guides which advocated arranging a berth in advance, just after 5pm I tried them by VHF then phone, the guy answered the phone didn’t want to talk to us, just said pull up at the fuel berth, not even asking our boat length.
The fuel berth turns out to be a concrete wall nestled between a the rocky end of the breakwater and the overhanging anchor of a big motor cruiser and when I say nestled, we had about 6ft either side when we were moored. I am still not sure how Kevin managed it in the 25 knot winds and we did sustain a slight scratch to the topsides on the bow. Then the security guy decided to turn up and directs us to a berth opposite, well it’s actually the end of a pontoon without a finger berth on it at an angle of 10-15 degrees list. Coming of this wall with the wind blowing us on was even more hairy with little comfort being available in either choice of rocks or bow/anchor at each side having to clear the beam of a large motor cruiser and not really being able to spring off the wall easily with no cleats available. The security guy did go over to the pontoon to take our lines, (which is just as well as the berth was too short for our boat so the usual approach of me stepping off the stern to moor that we usually employ was not possible, it’s a 4ft drop off the sides without a step which is awkward to say the least when mooring in those conditions. Kevin brought us alongside and by now there was also a man and a woman on the pontoon to assist. I threw stern line to the security guard then bow line to the other guy, both of whom preceeded to try and hold the boat under motor themselves rather than fastening round a cleat, after miming the wrapping round the cleat action, they both proceeded to let the lines gradually run through under the cleat without attempting to wrap it round, so we are now about 8ft of the pontoon in a very strong wind in berth too short, having just had a hell of a time getting off a nasty wall berth! Arrgghh, eventually we get them to lock the lines down on the cleats and between pulling in the lines and Kevin motoring us back and forth we managed to get moored up. We pay the security guy a 20 Euro deposit for the swipe card access as apparently by 5.30 the office is shut. Kevin is now quite understandably in need of a beer, so we secure the boat and head ashore. The man that helped us with the lines is still stood at the end of the pontoon looking out to sea and talking into his mobile. The pontoons lead up to a very unattractive aluminium fencing about 8 ft height, behind which is a small pool created by pontoons and a wooden hut, then another pool in which is moored (from what you can see through the grills) a very tired looking “pirate” ship. We proceed up the pontoons through the portacabin on the end and out to a café overlooking more 8 ft fencing on the other side. There are two people in the café, we wander round but failed to find the showers which reputedly our swipe card provides access. We settle for a beer or two in the rather scruffy looking café/bar/restaurant. I only realised a little later when I go to the filthy toilets (akin to a service station, over flowing bins, broken tiles etc) that one of the two cubicles has a swipe card access and there is a very large water heater mounted on the wall above head height. I assume that was the shower, though I had no intention of trying it. I wouldn’t imagine that you can get to the toilets at night either and clearly you’d be sharing the one available with the café clients (though I suppose luckily there weren’t many of them). Absolutely horrible, facilities awful, ridiculously overpriced at 30 Euros a night (more than Puerto Calero!!!). I assume that there may have been access to a swimming pool on the resort somewhere, though it must be quite a walk as we didn’t see it, presumably you have to get the mini train thing parked outside.
We went back to the boat for a nice meal on board (mushroom spaghetti), though the man was still on the end of the pontoon looking in on us, as chose the moment we sat down to eat to ask if Kevin could take the lines of his son when he arrived at the berth next to us. We agreed and sat down to relax… later to be joined by two men fishing off the end of the pontoon apparently for shrimp until after dark. I guess it is a disadvantage of the deck level saloon in terms of privacy, but you don’t usually have people stood all evening at the end of the finger pontoon that you are moored on. Better was yet to come however, when Kevin got up in the morning to find a visitation of about 6 fisherman, one of whom was just about to climb on board our boat and seemed a bit put out when Kevin told him not to!
The man’s son finally turned up at about 11.30pm, so he’d have had a 6 hour wait at the end of the pontoon if he’d hung around, clearly not so good at calculating his ETA. I certainly wouldn’t have come in to the bay which is unlit and surrounded by reefs on both sides of the entrance at night, but I guess he must have been local. Kevin went to help (he was still on about the 4th rewatch of Band of Brothers so no problem). The guy offered up a line which appeared to be washing line or something similar to Kevin to moor up his ~26ft motor cruiser, luckily his father turned up so Kevin left them to it. The engines were still running 30 minutes later, so I guess there were problems.
Tuesday 24th - Marina Rubicon – Dive Compressors & Barbeques
Kevin was straight onto his next job today which is sourcing our new compressor and diving cylinders. We’ll both be happier with these are on board, not only for diving but also for anchoring, very frustrating when we are both divers to be snorkelling up and down to arrange anchors, we’d hate to loose one for the sack of a cylinder. Kevin had already contacted the main importer in Tenerife before we left the UK, as it was going to be a lot cheaper than home, plus it was worth not having that weight aboard if we didn’t need it before. We’d enquired at Rubidive at Marina Rubicon, who first quoted 400 Euros for 10 litre aluminium diving cylinders, then 300 Euros with the compressor for which are only £140 in the UK. They also wanted 3500 Euros for the Bauer Junior Petrol compressor (everyone we have spoken to insists on this over the Coltrisub). It turns out from speaking to our Tenerife contact that Rubidive were actually getting the compressor from them, they quoted us directly: 2400 Euro plus transport & delivery for the compressor and 140 Euros per cylinder. So they definitely won the business, it just shows you the mark up that some of these places are adding!
We had a bit of a pantomime then dashing into Playa Blanca to pay a deposit in cash into their account at the local branch of their bank as I could not transfer the money from my UK bank account in Euros without being at my branch in the UK with my passport for ID. Anyway, it is all now ordered and we should have them all by the time Alex arrives for her school holidays. Even better news, Kevin’s nephew Sean has agreed to come out with Alex to accompany her on the flight, so they will both be coming for just short of three weeks. We are really looking forward to a fun filled time of diving, fishing and sailing with them both as they are both very keen to get involved. It is also Sean’s 18th while he is with us, so more reasons for celebrations, plus a memorable birthday for him.
By now it was gone 2pm and my Dad and Angelo had been hard at it in the villa doing some maintenance, so everyone was ready for some lunch. They picked us up from Playa Blanca and we all went to the trusty Lani’s Snack Bar for a long lunch before heading back to Skype with Alex. We were invited around for another barbeque at my parent’s villa as it was our last night before we departed for Fuerteventura, so we headed straight off again down the seafront for a relaxing evening and another feast! We need to get back out to sea now I think to burn off a few calories!
We had a bit of a pantomime then dashing into Playa Blanca to pay a deposit in cash into their account at the local branch of their bank as I could not transfer the money from my UK bank account in Euros without being at my branch in the UK with my passport for ID. Anyway, it is all now ordered and we should have them all by the time Alex arrives for her school holidays. Even better news, Kevin’s nephew Sean has agreed to come out with Alex to accompany her on the flight, so they will both be coming for just short of three weeks. We are really looking forward to a fun filled time of diving, fishing and sailing with them both as they are both very keen to get involved. It is also Sean’s 18th while he is with us, so more reasons for celebrations, plus a memorable birthday for him.
By now it was gone 2pm and my Dad and Angelo had been hard at it in the villa doing some maintenance, so everyone was ready for some lunch. They picked us up from Playa Blanca and we all went to the trusty Lani’s Snack Bar for a long lunch before heading back to Skype with Alex. We were invited around for another barbeque at my parent’s villa as it was our last night before we departed for Fuerteventura, so we headed straight off again down the seafront for a relaxing evening and another feast! We need to get back out to sea now I think to burn off a few calories!
Monday 23rd - Marina Rubicon – Arrecife Day trip
Bill and Karen arrived about 9.30 for their boat tour, as they were curious about the living accommodation as many people you see a yacht and wonder how exactly there is room to live on board. We provided our now usual tour with a bit of an explanation of the electronics and aids aboard which will help us with our trip. They seems impressed with the size, as people seem to be with the Mahe as photo’s just don’t seem to do it justice.
We headed straight off to Arrecife to catch the shops before siesta, Karen had an outfit to buy for her son’s wedding, being down to the decision on the final shortlist.
Bill dropped us right in front of where all of the chandlers are located in Arrecife, which is just as well as I don’t think we would have found them otherwise. We said we were more than happy to get the bus back, but exchanged phone numbers in case they were heading back at the same time.
The chandleries are relatively well stocked but cater more for fishing boats than yachts, also they have a tendency to keep stock out back rather than in the main shop like a car parts department, which is very tricky as my Spanish has not yet extended to deck fittings for yachts! Anyway after a quick survey of the 2 or 3 chandleries available, we managed to get the grand total of a single double Lewmar block, snap shackle and a spare spark plug for the outboard! We wanted a few other things such as spare lines, oil extractor pump but they didn’t have what we wanted, so they will have to wait until Las Palmas, Gran Canaria, which is supposed to be well stocked with chandleries because of the number of boats descending there for the Atlantic Rally for Cruisers (ARC) each November – 500 this year I think.
So we headed back to Arrecife centre to get some lunch and do some food shopping, we were expecting Bill & Karen to be about 2.5 hours so we were planning to get the bus back. However, as we wandered down the main street in Arrecife, we bumped into them having a coffee, they had already finished shopping, so it had worked out well. We joined them for a coffee and sandwich, then they offered a lift home via the supermarket which we needed to get to and they were parked below. It was an absolute godsend our lift to Arrecife as it would have taken us hours by bus, plus what luxury to get a lift from the supermarket and not have to carry all our bags back (how quickly our appreciation changes of the simple things!). Bill and Karen were wonderful, very helpful and we really enjoyed meeting them, they insisted on buying our lunch too, even though they had given us the lift. So Bill and Karen if you are still reading - thanks again for the lift– hope the wedding goes well and you enjoy the French wine as a change (which I think Mum will have dropped of by the time you read this), keep in touch, we’ll let you know what we think of the Cape Verdes
We headed straight off to Arrecife to catch the shops before siesta, Karen had an outfit to buy for her son’s wedding, being down to the decision on the final shortlist.
Bill dropped us right in front of where all of the chandlers are located in Arrecife, which is just as well as I don’t think we would have found them otherwise. We said we were more than happy to get the bus back, but exchanged phone numbers in case they were heading back at the same time.
The chandleries are relatively well stocked but cater more for fishing boats than yachts, also they have a tendency to keep stock out back rather than in the main shop like a car parts department, which is very tricky as my Spanish has not yet extended to deck fittings for yachts! Anyway after a quick survey of the 2 or 3 chandleries available, we managed to get the grand total of a single double Lewmar block, snap shackle and a spare spark plug for the outboard! We wanted a few other things such as spare lines, oil extractor pump but they didn’t have what we wanted, so they will have to wait until Las Palmas, Gran Canaria, which is supposed to be well stocked with chandleries because of the number of boats descending there for the Atlantic Rally for Cruisers (ARC) each November – 500 this year I think.
So we headed back to Arrecife centre to get some lunch and do some food shopping, we were expecting Bill & Karen to be about 2.5 hours so we were planning to get the bus back. However, as we wandered down the main street in Arrecife, we bumped into them having a coffee, they had already finished shopping, so it had worked out well. We joined them for a coffee and sandwich, then they offered a lift home via the supermarket which we needed to get to and they were parked below. It was an absolute godsend our lift to Arrecife as it would have taken us hours by bus, plus what luxury to get a lift from the supermarket and not have to carry all our bags back (how quickly our appreciation changes of the simple things!). Bill and Karen were wonderful, very helpful and we really enjoyed meeting them, they insisted on buying our lunch too, even though they had given us the lift. So Bill and Karen if you are still reading - thanks again for the lift– hope the wedding goes well and you enjoy the French wine as a change (which I think Mum will have dropped of by the time you read this), keep in touch, we’ll let you know what we think of the Cape Verdes
Sunday 22nd – Marina Rubicon – Spifurl fettling
After a busy day’s sailing and entertaining on Saturday, Kevin and I were kept fairly busy just washing the boat down and catching up on some paperwork from home following the arrival of a pile of post from my parents. Kevin has also been determined to conquer the Spifurl (additional large head/front sail designed for light downwind sailing which will be the predominant condition on our route – hopefully) since our previous attempts to furl have been rather hit and miss. We had a demonstration when we handed the boat over from FP in La Rochelle, but even Romain who performed it seemed to struggle, also curiously he did not use have of the deck gear that been fitted as part of this rather expensive option. Fitted as part of the Spifurl:
• Bowsprit - used
• Wychard Eye - used
• 2 Jammer’s - unused
• Winch on Mast - unused
• Winch on port aft quarter - unused
• Spirfurl sail & furling drums – used
• Continuous furling line - used
We think that basically they fitted the equipment used for the gennaker (slightly different design of headsail) which was the preceding optional extra then just swapped the sail even though it has a completely different furling system and therefore presumably required different deck fittings. Therefore, Kevin has been researching on the Fancor website who make the furling system, plus also checking with other people we know who have them to understand the problem we have been having. Things we have found out so far:
• You need to turn downwind to furl
• The main needs to be used to shadow the sail to depower (we had just tried the genoa which was less effective)
• The continuous furling line was incorrectly threaded on the furling drum
• The line is not continuous, but has to ends with a spliced eye lashed together that catches in the drum
• The continuous furling line need to be kept under tension, the Fancor website advocates leading back to the helm via 3 blocks, using a winch plus a bungee to tension
• The Wychard eye bolt was inexplicably mounted on the side of the bowsprit instead of the top which seems to encourage jamming of the furling drum line as it doesn’t run horizontally but at an angle
• The sail needs to be hoisted as high as possible with as much tension on the halyard as possible to avoid chafe on the guard wires.
Therefore, Kevin has removed the superfluous jammer to keep as a spare and repositioned the Eye bolt on the top of the bowsprit. He was keen to pick up an additional block and pad eye from a chandlers to see whether just leading the furling line through the furler consistently via a block and via the top rather than the side of the bowsprit would be enough to before spending the additional money for more kit to lead it back to the cockpit.
My parents popped over early afternoon for a quick hello to see what we were up to and make some plans for the evening. Kevin and Dad popped to the chandlery in Rubicon for some filler (they didn’t have the other bits) so Kevin could carry on his work. We agreed with my parents that as we were budgeting we would not join them for dinner but that they would come and join us for a drink on the way out or home.
My dad also mentioned that a friend Bill and his wife Karen who live near their villa in Playa Blanca had asked if they could come over and see our boat. Bill had found our blog on the internet when searching for mentions of Lanzarote and had been following the blog. We were more than happy to have the chance to show off our beloved Invincible and arranged via my Dad that they would come on Monday before their trip to Arrecife, which worked well to pick up the bits for the Spifurl, so they would give us a lift after the tour.
Around 10pm after a failed attempt at a meal on Femes which is one of their favourite restaurants up on the hills overlooking the whole of Playa Blanca (the owners were on holiday), my parents, Angelo & Michelle arrived following a meal in a Spanish restaurant in Playa Blanca. It seems that the hosts had recognised them from the many previous visits to Playa Blanca and had offered them liqueurs, so they were fairly merry from some large servings of Amaretto by the time they joined us!
Kevin and I had been having a fairly quiet evening with some good music and nice home cooked meal.
We served up some Cuban rum & coke and Gin & tonics and beers followed by some wine. We have converted them all to our cruisers choice of cartons of table wine, it is very drinkable and not too strong after a day in the sun and at only ~ 1 Euro a litre it is great for budgeting! It was a great evening, carrying on until about 1am, putting the world to rights etc in the way you can do only after suitable alcohol is consumed.
• Bowsprit - used
• Wychard Eye - used
• 2 Jammer’s - unused
• Winch on Mast - unused
• Winch on port aft quarter - unused
• Spirfurl sail & furling drums – used
• Continuous furling line - used
We think that basically they fitted the equipment used for the gennaker (slightly different design of headsail) which was the preceding optional extra then just swapped the sail even though it has a completely different furling system and therefore presumably required different deck fittings. Therefore, Kevin has been researching on the Fancor website who make the furling system, plus also checking with other people we know who have them to understand the problem we have been having. Things we have found out so far:
• You need to turn downwind to furl
• The main needs to be used to shadow the sail to depower (we had just tried the genoa which was less effective)
• The continuous furling line was incorrectly threaded on the furling drum
• The line is not continuous, but has to ends with a spliced eye lashed together that catches in the drum
• The continuous furling line need to be kept under tension, the Fancor website advocates leading back to the helm via 3 blocks, using a winch plus a bungee to tension
• The Wychard eye bolt was inexplicably mounted on the side of the bowsprit instead of the top which seems to encourage jamming of the furling drum line as it doesn’t run horizontally but at an angle
• The sail needs to be hoisted as high as possible with as much tension on the halyard as possible to avoid chafe on the guard wires.
Therefore, Kevin has removed the superfluous jammer to keep as a spare and repositioned the Eye bolt on the top of the bowsprit. He was keen to pick up an additional block and pad eye from a chandlers to see whether just leading the furling line through the furler consistently via a block and via the top rather than the side of the bowsprit would be enough to before spending the additional money for more kit to lead it back to the cockpit.
My parents popped over early afternoon for a quick hello to see what we were up to and make some plans for the evening. Kevin and Dad popped to the chandlery in Rubicon for some filler (they didn’t have the other bits) so Kevin could carry on his work. We agreed with my parents that as we were budgeting we would not join them for dinner but that they would come and join us for a drink on the way out or home.
My dad also mentioned that a friend Bill and his wife Karen who live near their villa in Playa Blanca had asked if they could come over and see our boat. Bill had found our blog on the internet when searching for mentions of Lanzarote and had been following the blog. We were more than happy to have the chance to show off our beloved Invincible and arranged via my Dad that they would come on Monday before their trip to Arrecife, which worked well to pick up the bits for the Spifurl, so they would give us a lift after the tour.
Around 10pm after a failed attempt at a meal on Femes which is one of their favourite restaurants up on the hills overlooking the whole of Playa Blanca (the owners were on holiday), my parents, Angelo & Michelle arrived following a meal in a Spanish restaurant in Playa Blanca. It seems that the hosts had recognised them from the many previous visits to Playa Blanca and had offered them liqueurs, so they were fairly merry from some large servings of Amaretto by the time they joined us!
Kevin and I had been having a fairly quiet evening with some good music and nice home cooked meal.
We served up some Cuban rum & coke and Gin & tonics and beers followed by some wine. We have converted them all to our cruisers choice of cartons of table wine, it is very drinkable and not too strong after a day in the sun and at only ~ 1 Euro a litre it is great for budgeting! It was a great evening, carrying on until about 1am, putting the world to rights etc in the way you can do only after suitable alcohol is consumed.
Gran Tarajal
A fairly quiet but busy day, cleaning the boat from top to bottom inside and out to remove the salt from our latest trip and also the surprising amount of dust which had already accumulated. Kevin put some gel coat on the holes he filled on the bowsprit and touched up the bow which is now good as new.
We also went to find an internet café to update the blog with last week’s entire event. Only 30 cents here for 15 minutes.
We also went to find an internet café to update the blog with last week’s entire event. Only 30 cents here for 15 minutes.
Saturday, 21 June 2008
Day Sailing, Papagayo, Lanzarote
About 11am on Sat we threw off the lines and headed out for a day’s sailing. My dad had also managed to hire some cylinders locally so he and Kevin could “clean the hull” whilst we were out as we have not yet managed to buy any for the boat in the Canaries as they are about double the price of the UK. As we left the marina it was blowing steady 15 knots, perfect. Obviously, by the time we had headed into wind and got the sails up, we were down to 5 knots of wind because we had moved into the lee of the large volcanoes sheltering Playa Blanca.
Kevin & Angelo
So, we head offshore a little and headed east past Papagayo beach, eventually settling on a close reach (wind just off the bow – pointy end) when the wind returned to pass south of Papagayo beach and head up the coast of Lanzarote. We had to tack (turn bow through the wind) a few times in order to get round the point of Papagayo but then set off on a broad reach, the best point of sail for a catamaran up the coast. We were heading into the current so it was a little choppy, but even those with the least hardy sea legs on board were comfortable with the motion. We were hitting 15 - 17 knots of wind heading along the east coast and touch 6-7 knots of boat speed under full sail, so it was a pretty good conditions. Unfortunately as we had to return the cylinders by 5pm, we didn’t have the time to make it all the way up the Quemada to the anchorage there, so we turned about and headed back to Papagayo, which was perfectly sheltered.
Kevin & Jo
Kevin and my dad kitted straight up in their dive gear to check the anchor and the hull whilst Angelo and Michelle observed snorkelling above them. I prepared us all some lunch, though it was now already after 1pm and by the time the divers were back on board it was already 4pm by the time we had eaten and it was unfortunately time to pack up and head home. However, a good day was had by all, the wind had picked up to about 20knots by the time we got into Marina Rubicon, typically as we had to moor up, but Kevin again did a great job of bringing us alongside. I forced them all to a slideshow and to watch my carefully edited dolphin video which is unfortunately far too large to post on the internet until I can get some compression software. They bore holiday snaps well assisted with some beer and Michelle and Angelo were kind enough to give us a copy of their pictures too which are included in this blog entry.
Resting post-holiday snapshot slideshow
After another rinse down of the boat, dive gear and ourselves, the evening was finished off with a really good meal in L’Artiste restaurant on the seafront, which our guests were kind enough to treat us to. The staff are very friendly in the restaurant and the food excellent, Angelo being Sicilian was able to join in the banter, plus I guess the reputation of that area helps to ensure good service!
Kevin & Angelo
So, we head offshore a little and headed east past Papagayo beach, eventually settling on a close reach (wind just off the bow – pointy end) when the wind returned to pass south of Papagayo beach and head up the coast of Lanzarote. We had to tack (turn bow through the wind) a few times in order to get round the point of Papagayo but then set off on a broad reach, the best point of sail for a catamaran up the coast. We were heading into the current so it was a little choppy, but even those with the least hardy sea legs on board were comfortable with the motion. We were hitting 15 - 17 knots of wind heading along the east coast and touch 6-7 knots of boat speed under full sail, so it was a pretty good conditions. Unfortunately as we had to return the cylinders by 5pm, we didn’t have the time to make it all the way up the Quemada to the anchorage there, so we turned about and headed back to Papagayo, which was perfectly sheltered.
Kevin & Jo
Kevin and my dad kitted straight up in their dive gear to check the anchor and the hull whilst Angelo and Michelle observed snorkelling above them. I prepared us all some lunch, though it was now already after 1pm and by the time the divers were back on board it was already 4pm by the time we had eaten and it was unfortunately time to pack up and head home. However, a good day was had by all, the wind had picked up to about 20knots by the time we got into Marina Rubicon, typically as we had to moor up, but Kevin again did a great job of bringing us alongside. I forced them all to a slideshow and to watch my carefully edited dolphin video which is unfortunately far too large to post on the internet until I can get some compression software. They bore holiday snaps well assisted with some beer and Michelle and Angelo were kind enough to give us a copy of their pictures too which are included in this blog entry.
Resting post-holiday snapshot slideshow
After another rinse down of the boat, dive gear and ourselves, the evening was finished off with a really good meal in L’Artiste restaurant on the seafront, which our guests were kind enough to treat us to. The staff are very friendly in the restaurant and the food excellent, Angelo being Sicilian was able to join in the banter, plus I guess the reputation of that area helps to ensure good service!
Friday, 20 June 2008
Los Coloradas, Lanzarote
We welcomed our guests on board about 11am, the first my parent had seen of our boat, although they had seen a demo version at the Southampton Boat Show. Angelo and Michelle I have also know since I was a teenager and when I learnt to dive at Misterton Sub-Aqua Club of which my dad and sister Nikki were members. So, it was great to do the guided tour and show them all round. We all had a cuppa and made plans for sailing the next day as they were all itching to go for their first sailing trip. We were also invited for a barbecue in the evening at my parent’s villa, which I had not yet visited. They all headed off for a shopping trip and around 15:00pm my dad arrived in their hire car to give us a lift to Los Coloradas and return the guided tour.
We all had a very pleasant evening, they had prepared a real feast for the barbecue with giant king prawns, fresh fish and an enormous steak which Kevin really enjoyed having been eating with me for several weeks (I don’t eat red meat). We all had a swim in their pool after eating just as the evening drew in as it was balmy 36 degrees in the water due the super efficient solar heating used! It was lovely, but you really didn’t want to get out!
Kevin and I had a lovely stroll along the seafront route from Los Coloradas which takes you directly to Marina Rubicon. We could not believe how quiet it was all around, despite their being villas all along the route. It was a full moon and the walk was a lovely end to a great day.
We all had a very pleasant evening, they had prepared a real feast for the barbecue with giant king prawns, fresh fish and an enormous steak which Kevin really enjoyed having been eating with me for several weeks (I don’t eat red meat). We all had a swim in their pool after eating just as the evening drew in as it was balmy 36 degrees in the water due the super efficient solar heating used! It was lovely, but you really didn’t want to get out!
Kevin and I had a lovely stroll along the seafront route from Los Coloradas which takes you directly to Marina Rubicon. We could not believe how quiet it was all around, despite their being villas all along the route. It was a full moon and the walk was a lovely end to a great day.
Thursday, 19 June 2008
Boat Cleaning
Thursday was fairly uneventful in the spent the entire day cleaning the boat! With all surfaces either shiny or white or both, every single hair and mark shows up. I am sure that does not elicit the slightest sympathy considering the climate and the boat and actually it was quite satisfying as you could at least see the product of your labours which is not always the case in our previous profession of IT. By 7.30pm we had finished and she looked like new, owing to the fact that we had polished every surface we decided to cheat again and head out for dinner. We didn’t wander far, only to Lani’s snack bar on the edge of Marina Rubicon complex to have a bar snack, though it seems to be a fairly popular place locally as everyone we have met since has recommended, plus all the marina staff were in there, which is a good sign. The meals are very cheap, 5 Euros for ½ a chicken and chips. We shared a mixed salad, Kevin had a hamburger and I had a pizza, followed by an icecream sundae (we had built up quite an appetite!).
Wednesday, 18 June 2008
Marina Rubicon, Lanzarote
I have just had to read back the last blog entry to see where we were up to because it seems to have been a busy few days. We are now moored in Marina Rubicon in Playa Blanca where we have been since Wednesday evening. The wind decided to turn fully 180 degrees on Wednesday daytime, making our anchorage a lee shore (e.g. if the anchor slips the wind blows you onto it). Luckily the winds were still very light but it meant we weren’t comfortable leaving the boat to go ashore as we had been planning. Due to the impending arrival of my parents and their friends Angelo & Michelle the next day we just decided to go in a day earlier and therefore give ourselves all day on Thursday to get the boat cleaned up before our visitors arrived.
Therefore after a short tussle with the kedge (secondary) anchor we had laid which hadn’t appreciated the wind change we pulled up the main anchor and headed the short distance across the bay to Marina Rubicon. Marina Rubicon has a really good reputation and facilities and we had both been looking forward to stopping here ourselves, just because in many of our plans previously involved coming in here due to the closeness to my parent’s villa. It certainly lives up to its reputation, it’s a huge complex with the apparently obligatory designer shops and many restaurants and even a swimming pool and tennis court to use. We moored at the reception pontoon, where we were helped with our lines before checking in at the office (106 Euros for 3 nights initially). There seemed to be a bit of an issue of where to put us as we have a 5m+ beam (width), often catamarans are put on the hammerhead (end) of the pontoon, which suits us as it’s much easier to get on and off. After much debate, they decided on a berth because our neighbour had a small boat we would be able to get in. So we head off as I rapidly move the fenders (inflated buoys to protect the boat sides) to the other side of the boat ready to get into our mooring as per the plan provided. As appears to be the case in posh marinas a marina employed was despatched to out berth to take our lines and assist mooring up. Kevin easily tucked us in beside the small power boat beside us and we were soon secured. We then looked round and see that a least a third of the berths nearby were completely empty , so we don’t quite understand their berthing issue unless, unlike pretty much every marina we have been in the berth holders are actually away sailing in the boats.
It was now about 8pm, so we decided to splash out on a meal out in Playa Blanca as we had been looking at it for 2 days. It’s about a 15 minute walk along a beautifully kept walkway into the centre of Playa Blanca. There were many people milling around of all nationalities, there are a selection of first large hotels then restaurants approaching Playa Blanca, the gardens are beautifully kept and they have been very tastefully architected, overall we were really impressed, definitely the nicest resort we have been to in the Canaries and not a single English Breakfast on offer on the front. We headed for the Old Mill bar on the first floor with an open terrace overlooking the bay. We looked at the catamaran we had been moored alongside and reflected on how many people must have sat where we were looking out at us moored below them in the last couple of days and wondered about us just as we were now.
We headed off the seafront to see if we could find slightly cheaper local restaurant rather than the more tourist offering on the front. Unfortunately hunger got the better of us and we ended up in a slightly cheaper tourist restaurant on the next road back. The service was good but the food fairly average, still we were enjoying exploring a little and a bit of people watching.
Therefore after a short tussle with the kedge (secondary) anchor we had laid which hadn’t appreciated the wind change we pulled up the main anchor and headed the short distance across the bay to Marina Rubicon. Marina Rubicon has a really good reputation and facilities and we had both been looking forward to stopping here ourselves, just because in many of our plans previously involved coming in here due to the closeness to my parent’s villa. It certainly lives up to its reputation, it’s a huge complex with the apparently obligatory designer shops and many restaurants and even a swimming pool and tennis court to use. We moored at the reception pontoon, where we were helped with our lines before checking in at the office (106 Euros for 3 nights initially). There seemed to be a bit of an issue of where to put us as we have a 5m+ beam (width), often catamarans are put on the hammerhead (end) of the pontoon, which suits us as it’s much easier to get on and off. After much debate, they decided on a berth because our neighbour had a small boat we would be able to get in. So we head off as I rapidly move the fenders (inflated buoys to protect the boat sides) to the other side of the boat ready to get into our mooring as per the plan provided. As appears to be the case in posh marinas a marina employed was despatched to out berth to take our lines and assist mooring up. Kevin easily tucked us in beside the small power boat beside us and we were soon secured. We then looked round and see that a least a third of the berths nearby were completely empty , so we don’t quite understand their berthing issue unless, unlike pretty much every marina we have been in the berth holders are actually away sailing in the boats.
It was now about 8pm, so we decided to splash out on a meal out in Playa Blanca as we had been looking at it for 2 days. It’s about a 15 minute walk along a beautifully kept walkway into the centre of Playa Blanca. There were many people milling around of all nationalities, there are a selection of first large hotels then restaurants approaching Playa Blanca, the gardens are beautifully kept and they have been very tastefully architected, overall we were really impressed, definitely the nicest resort we have been to in the Canaries and not a single English Breakfast on offer on the front. We headed for the Old Mill bar on the first floor with an open terrace overlooking the bay. We looked at the catamaran we had been moored alongside and reflected on how many people must have sat where we were looking out at us moored below them in the last couple of days and wondered about us just as we were now.
We headed off the seafront to see if we could find slightly cheaper local restaurant rather than the more tourist offering on the front. Unfortunately hunger got the better of us and we ended up in a slightly cheaper tourist restaurant on the next road back. The service was good but the food fairly average, still we were enjoying exploring a little and a bit of people watching.
Tuesday, 17 June 2008
Playa Blanca – Lanzarote
We have now left Corralejo and we are anchored off the beach at Playa Blanca, the sail over was an interesting one with 22 to 25 knot head winds all the way, the boat took it all in its stride.
On our way over we took a different route, going round the island of Lobos, which was a possible anchoring point, but on closer inspection the wind was to strong, so plan B came into action. The island I am sure must have been used in the film “The land that time forgot”, we are reliable informed from the cruising guide that there is life on Lobos after 5.00 o’clock.
We have just spent 2 days at anchor without even bothering going ashore, some time spent swimming in the warm clear blue water, checking out the anchor and the hull, which is as clean as a whistle, both of us spending time catching up on our reading, generally just chilling out, but today we are planning on a ride in to inspect what is on offer locally.
Jo’s parents accompanied with some friends are due out in a couple of days, all looking forward to doing some sailing on the boat, so the weather gods has decided that the wind, which has been a steady 15 to 20 knots every day, perfect sailing conditions, should now die, we woke up this morning to the calmest conditions we have seen since being in the Canaries, flat calm.
We think the glass bottom tourist boats are having a competition between themselves to see who can get the closest to our stern and a consolation prize for the one who can make the biggest bow wave, they always do with a smile, bless um.
El Puertito - Isla de Lobos
Kite Surfers off Fuerteventura
At anchor off Playa Blanca
On our way over we took a different route, going round the island of Lobos, which was a possible anchoring point, but on closer inspection the wind was to strong, so plan B came into action. The island I am sure must have been used in the film “The land that time forgot”, we are reliable informed from the cruising guide that there is life on Lobos after 5.00 o’clock.
We have just spent 2 days at anchor without even bothering going ashore, some time spent swimming in the warm clear blue water, checking out the anchor and the hull, which is as clean as a whistle, both of us spending time catching up on our reading, generally just chilling out, but today we are planning on a ride in to inspect what is on offer locally.
Jo’s parents accompanied with some friends are due out in a couple of days, all looking forward to doing some sailing on the boat, so the weather gods has decided that the wind, which has been a steady 15 to 20 knots every day, perfect sailing conditions, should now die, we woke up this morning to the calmest conditions we have seen since being in the Canaries, flat calm.
We think the glass bottom tourist boats are having a competition between themselves to see who can get the closest to our stern and a consolation prize for the one who can make the biggest bow wave, they always do with a smile, bless um.
El Puertito - Isla de Lobos
Kite Surfers off Fuerteventura
At anchor off Playa Blanca
Saturday, 14 June 2008
Corralejo, Fuerteventura
Well if the day before was a people watching day, then yesterday was a boat watching day. We are moored on the visitor’s pontoon here in Corralejo, the other side of which is used for the day tripper boats going to Isla de Lobos. There were two 75ft catamarans and a local ferry boat taking passengers across which arrived by the coach load. The “Catalanza” catamaran is moored at Puerto Calero and we had seen the two brand new airbrushed coaches which service it there, apparently it does the Isla Lobos route 2 times a week, we saw it do two 4 hours runs, with 50 then 40 passengers at 50 Euros a head, not bad business – Kevin was calculating this away each time they disembarked!
Corralejo
It was a fairly leisurely day; Kevin was busy on boat jobs, readying the kedge (secondary anchor) and a large rope for mooring buoys. I spent the day trying to perfect the long awaited dolphin video, which with any luck should have been posted with this update. Finally it was a quiet evening reading books with a glass of wine. I love reading and it is great to finally get to pick a book up for more than a couple of pages. Kevin has finally had time to start his Patrick O’Brien series (made into the “Master & Commander” film with Russell Crowe) which he is really enjoying, having already made it through the first in the series – “Master & Commander” and started on “Post Captain”. They are full of battles on the high seas and derring do, very popular with sailors – Bill moored beside us had the complete set on his bookshelf too.
We have decided to stay a couple more days at Corralejo until Monday when we will head to Porto Naos near Arrecife to pick up some boat bits Kevin wants to rig a better solution for our Spifurl as there appear to be few chandlers elsewhere. My parents are coming out to their villa at Playa Blanca on Friday next week, so we are staying in the area of Lanzarote to see them.
Corralejo
It was a fairly leisurely day; Kevin was busy on boat jobs, readying the kedge (secondary anchor) and a large rope for mooring buoys. I spent the day trying to perfect the long awaited dolphin video, which with any luck should have been posted with this update. Finally it was a quiet evening reading books with a glass of wine. I love reading and it is great to finally get to pick a book up for more than a couple of pages. Kevin has finally had time to start his Patrick O’Brien series (made into the “Master & Commander” film with Russell Crowe) which he is really enjoying, having already made it through the first in the series – “Master & Commander” and started on “Post Captain”. They are full of battles on the high seas and derring do, very popular with sailors – Bill moored beside us had the complete set on his bookshelf too.
We have decided to stay a couple more days at Corralejo until Monday when we will head to Porto Naos near Arrecife to pick up some boat bits Kevin wants to rig a better solution for our Spifurl as there appear to be few chandlers elsewhere. My parents are coming out to their villa at Playa Blanca on Friday next week, so we are staying in the area of Lanzarote to see them.
Friday, 13 June 2008
Corralejo, Fuerteventura
We picked up anchor about 12:00 after a leisurely start to recuperate from night watches. The wind was up to 20 knots by then, though that seems to be a local average despite the 10 – 15 knot forecasts at present. We had only 10 miles to go to the north of Fuerteventura, the buildings of Corralejo being visible from where we were anchored by day and by lights at night.
We decided again to set off just under genoa (smaller head/front sail), with the strength of wind we were still getting 4-5 knots so saw no point in complicating matters further for such a short sail with all day to get there. We were also anticipating the wind acceleration zone between Lanzarote and Fuerteventura, a kind of wind tunnelling effect cause by the high land masses, which increases the wind strength in those areas. As soon as we were about 2-3 miles off Lanzarote the wind did start to build to about 25 knots at maximum, so we just furled the genoa a little and pressed on. The seas are also a little confused in the area as the seas funnelled either side of Lanzarote meet and then try to squeeze down the narrower Rio between Fuerteventura and Isla Los Lobos. However, though a little bumpy it was still a fun sail and at that speed we were soon beginning to pick out the landmarks of Corralejo more clearly to make our approaches. We opted to leave Los Lobos for another day rather than rush to do both in one day, the swell in the Rio was fairly high which was comfortable downwind but from the looks of the other catamaran to our port was pretty uncomfortable to take beam (side of boat) on! Obviously as soon as we were making the approaches to Corralejo having not passed another boat all the way across, we had no one but two ferries approaching us from astern (behind). Although strictly speaking they would have to avoid us according to maritime law, we decided to do a small turn to wind to let them over take us, this way we could follow their lead into this new harbour as there are rocks surrounding the entrance.
Isla de Lobos
As soon as we neared the new visitors pontoon Kevin learned about from Mick & Patti (a nice Irish couple living on La Gomera who visited Graciosa), the port official shouted over to check how long we were staying and advise us where to moor and tell us to check straight in. It is slightly complex to have such conversations in broken English (my Spanish studying has not progressed that far yet), whilst preparing the mooring lines and fenders and trying to avoid other shipping traffic, still we went to the berth indicated and Kevin did a great job of bringing us in with the strong wind blowing us off the pontoon. Another British sailor, Bill moored behind us, helped to take our lines and invited us for a cold beer when we were settled so we went to check in, paid our 12 Euros per night and went to join him. He gave us some pointers of where to find things around the town and told us a little about his travels before we headed off to do some provisioning ourselves.
We went for a wander around the town that evening to the Rogues Gallery bar advised by Bill, then to a couple of other bars. The old harbour area of the town nearest to the marina is full of narrow streets and restaurants, where many British tourists were wandering round with varying states of white/red skin to mark them out. Each of the restaurants had hosts on the streets to draw people in to their establishments, having only ever been on one package holiday in my life before this was all rather alien to me, but as we had bought some lovely fresh prawns from the supermarket we declined their offers. It was interesting to be back in such a crowed area and we enjoyed a bit of people watching. The two sights that really caught my eye was a funeral wake occurring in a night club with music at full volume blasting into the street at 7pm and the flowers laid on the pool table out front, from what we could understand it was for someone living locally, probably the only wake I have seen which breaks convention so that the character of the departed can be guessed at. The second was passing a children’s playground in a square in the middle of the town where there must have been 100 people there with their children, with ladies in full Arabic costume, local Spanish/Canarian fathers and British tourists with their children playing alongside each other, probably the only place I have seen that degree of mixing anywhere.
We decided again to set off just under genoa (smaller head/front sail), with the strength of wind we were still getting 4-5 knots so saw no point in complicating matters further for such a short sail with all day to get there. We were also anticipating the wind acceleration zone between Lanzarote and Fuerteventura, a kind of wind tunnelling effect cause by the high land masses, which increases the wind strength in those areas. As soon as we were about 2-3 miles off Lanzarote the wind did start to build to about 25 knots at maximum, so we just furled the genoa a little and pressed on. The seas are also a little confused in the area as the seas funnelled either side of Lanzarote meet and then try to squeeze down the narrower Rio between Fuerteventura and Isla Los Lobos. However, though a little bumpy it was still a fun sail and at that speed we were soon beginning to pick out the landmarks of Corralejo more clearly to make our approaches. We opted to leave Los Lobos for another day rather than rush to do both in one day, the swell in the Rio was fairly high which was comfortable downwind but from the looks of the other catamaran to our port was pretty uncomfortable to take beam (side of boat) on! Obviously as soon as we were making the approaches to Corralejo having not passed another boat all the way across, we had no one but two ferries approaching us from astern (behind). Although strictly speaking they would have to avoid us according to maritime law, we decided to do a small turn to wind to let them over take us, this way we could follow their lead into this new harbour as there are rocks surrounding the entrance.
Isla de Lobos
As soon as we neared the new visitors pontoon Kevin learned about from Mick & Patti (a nice Irish couple living on La Gomera who visited Graciosa), the port official shouted over to check how long we were staying and advise us where to moor and tell us to check straight in. It is slightly complex to have such conversations in broken English (my Spanish studying has not progressed that far yet), whilst preparing the mooring lines and fenders and trying to avoid other shipping traffic, still we went to the berth indicated and Kevin did a great job of bringing us in with the strong wind blowing us off the pontoon. Another British sailor, Bill moored behind us, helped to take our lines and invited us for a cold beer when we were settled so we went to check in, paid our 12 Euros per night and went to join him. He gave us some pointers of where to find things around the town and told us a little about his travels before we headed off to do some provisioning ourselves.
We went for a wander around the town that evening to the Rogues Gallery bar advised by Bill, then to a couple of other bars. The old harbour area of the town nearest to the marina is full of narrow streets and restaurants, where many British tourists were wandering round with varying states of white/red skin to mark them out. Each of the restaurants had hosts on the streets to draw people in to their establishments, having only ever been on one package holiday in my life before this was all rather alien to me, but as we had bought some lovely fresh prawns from the supermarket we declined their offers. It was interesting to be back in such a crowed area and we enjoyed a bit of people watching. The two sights that really caught my eye was a funeral wake occurring in a night club with music at full volume blasting into the street at 7pm and the flowers laid on the pool table out front, from what we could understand it was for someone living locally, probably the only wake I have seen which breaks convention so that the character of the departed can be guessed at. The second was passing a children’s playground in a square in the middle of the town where there must have been 100 people there with their children, with ladies in full Arabic costume, local Spanish/Canarian fathers and British tourists with their children playing alongside each other, probably the only place I have seen that degree of mixing anywhere.
Thursday, 12 June 2008
Papagayo Beach, Playa Blanca, Lanzarote
I know you may not believe me but our time in Puerto Calero was extremely busy as we had free Wifi to do some organising jobs (I built a whole website for our wedding planning) and a number of jobs to do on the boat, it was 23:30 before I finally shutdown the laptop on Tuesday evening. Therefore, we were really looking forward to a night at anchor without communications to relax and read a book.
View at Puerto Calero
We were up relatively early and swapped around the remaining items to be charged before toping off the water tanks, re-fuelling and paying up. We had to wait for the yellow submarine based at the marina to pass before we left at about midday, which I admit is a new navigational hazard for me, it descended immediately after leaving the breakwater displaying just the traditional but small A / Diving flag which is familiar but just not that close to the water with no cover boat, it would certainly be easy to miss in a swell, but then I guess they probably choose their conditions carefully.
We had only 10 miles to sail yesterday and no timetable to do so, which was great we decided to sail just under genoa for the passage making only a leisurely 3-4 knots. It was very relaxing sail and being closer to land than usual, it was great to just watch the world go by. We’d planned to anchor in the bay to the west of Marina Rubicon, however, it was blowing 20 knots plus off the beach, so didn’t seem very inviting. We decided to double back on ourselves to the much more sheltered Papagayo beach area. On closer inspection there were 2-3 days boats and 2-3 cruisers already anchored, we picked a spot a reasonable distance from those already present which happened to be in front of the edge of the nudist beach. However, we decided as there appeared to be plenty of people on the beach fully clothed and we kept a respectful distance off, it was fair game and frankly we were not prepared to try an untested anchor in front of rocks rather than a nice sandy beach for the sake of modesty, besides which at least Kevin’s naked wandering round the boat in the morning would be more welcomed than in marinas!
We deployed the anchor successfully and Kevin put on the snorkel gear to check it, it hadn’t quite set, so I engaged a small amount of astern and Kevin watched it dig in nicely. The water is quite refreshing at 19-20 degrees, so there was a bit of deep breathing when he got in, but he got his chance to try our new solar shower when he got out (black bag with a hose which is surprising hot after hanging in the sun). However, he got his revenge when he accidentally dropped one of our big fenders over board when clearing the cockpit for us to sit out that evening when he was now changed and I was still in my bikini, so it was my turn to get in, guess I should have been more sympathetic earlier!
I’m not sure a couple of the nudists were desperately pleased with our choice of mooring spot, but the protestation appeared to consist of gathering on the shoreline naked, which surely increased their exposure, so we just settled down to cook our evening meal and have a cool beer to display we weren’t there to gawp (after confiscating the binoculars!). I guess we need not have worried though because within 30 minutes of anchoring a 50 ft Spanish yacht decided to anchor within 2 boat lengths astern of us on a 2-3 mile stretch of coast for no discernable reason other than perhaps to gawp. Luckily they moved off later that evening, it was something I had read about in other blogs people anchoring practically on top of you even in deserted bay, perhaps it is something about safety in numbers.
We decided as this was our first night at anchor we’d rather keep a watch and get good sleep in turns than neither of us sleep well. So we passed a very pleasant night reading by lamp light listening to the waves on the beach in the moonlight. We have had a leisurely start this morning, but plan to do a bit more sailing today, to pass the 10 miles to Fuerteventura to look at either Corralejo or Isla de Lobos for tonight.
View of Papagayo beach
View at Puerto Calero
We were up relatively early and swapped around the remaining items to be charged before toping off the water tanks, re-fuelling and paying up. We had to wait for the yellow submarine based at the marina to pass before we left at about midday, which I admit is a new navigational hazard for me, it descended immediately after leaving the breakwater displaying just the traditional but small A / Diving flag which is familiar but just not that close to the water with no cover boat, it would certainly be easy to miss in a swell, but then I guess they probably choose their conditions carefully.
We had only 10 miles to sail yesterday and no timetable to do so, which was great we decided to sail just under genoa for the passage making only a leisurely 3-4 knots. It was very relaxing sail and being closer to land than usual, it was great to just watch the world go by. We’d planned to anchor in the bay to the west of Marina Rubicon, however, it was blowing 20 knots plus off the beach, so didn’t seem very inviting. We decided to double back on ourselves to the much more sheltered Papagayo beach area. On closer inspection there were 2-3 days boats and 2-3 cruisers already anchored, we picked a spot a reasonable distance from those already present which happened to be in front of the edge of the nudist beach. However, we decided as there appeared to be plenty of people on the beach fully clothed and we kept a respectful distance off, it was fair game and frankly we were not prepared to try an untested anchor in front of rocks rather than a nice sandy beach for the sake of modesty, besides which at least Kevin’s naked wandering round the boat in the morning would be more welcomed than in marinas!
We deployed the anchor successfully and Kevin put on the snorkel gear to check it, it hadn’t quite set, so I engaged a small amount of astern and Kevin watched it dig in nicely. The water is quite refreshing at 19-20 degrees, so there was a bit of deep breathing when he got in, but he got his chance to try our new solar shower when he got out (black bag with a hose which is surprising hot after hanging in the sun). However, he got his revenge when he accidentally dropped one of our big fenders over board when clearing the cockpit for us to sit out that evening when he was now changed and I was still in my bikini, so it was my turn to get in, guess I should have been more sympathetic earlier!
I’m not sure a couple of the nudists were desperately pleased with our choice of mooring spot, but the protestation appeared to consist of gathering on the shoreline naked, which surely increased their exposure, so we just settled down to cook our evening meal and have a cool beer to display we weren’t there to gawp (after confiscating the binoculars!). I guess we need not have worried though because within 30 minutes of anchoring a 50 ft Spanish yacht decided to anchor within 2 boat lengths astern of us on a 2-3 mile stretch of coast for no discernable reason other than perhaps to gawp. Luckily they moved off later that evening, it was something I had read about in other blogs people anchoring practically on top of you even in deserted bay, perhaps it is something about safety in numbers.
We decided as this was our first night at anchor we’d rather keep a watch and get good sleep in turns than neither of us sleep well. So we passed a very pleasant night reading by lamp light listening to the waves on the beach in the moonlight. We have had a leisurely start this morning, but plan to do a bit more sailing today, to pass the 10 miles to Fuerteventura to look at either Corralejo or Isla de Lobos for tonight.
View of Papagayo beach
Tuesday, 10 June 2008
Puerto Calero, Lanzarote
Yesterday morning we finally left Graciosa after nearly four weeks, we visited the harbour master to pay our dues who performed the now familiar random number generation to create our bill. This time the slot machine paid in our favour with a bill of only 100 Euro for 26 days working out at 3.84 Euros a night. Bargain!
Ropes were cast off just after 10am for a sail of 36 miles to Puerto Calero marina, on south west Lanzarote. It was a little overcast as we left Graciosa as it has a tendency to be there every morning; forecast was for 15 knots from NW, the usual trade winds in the area. So we head out round the northern tip of Lanzarote following the ferry route we have both taken a couple of times now to Orzola. As we expected it was rather choppy passing the headland as we were motoring into wind and current, but as soon as we passed Orzola we were literally flying along the coast! I finally saw some wildlife - two flying fish and a large turtle basking on the surface.
It was really invigorating sail, as soon as we were running down the coast and downwind Invincible really got into her stride. The wind was pretty gusty at times as you head out of the shadow of one of the volcanic peaks and into the valley before the next peak where it blow across the land and we were getting up to 23 knots at times, however, we were reefed ready and just enjoyed the ride. Kevin even managed to perfectly time a complete lull in the wind for lunch being served (mushroom spaghetti) which was eaten sat round the saloon table as in fact we always do on passage. As soon as we had eaten we came out from the shadow of the mountain and flew off again. We sailed down the east coast past the airport with the planes coming in overhead. The wind blew consistently all the way to literally the entrance to Puerto Calero marina, which was a little disconcerting having 20 knots of wind coming into an unknown harbour to moor, but luckily the shelter started as soon as we turned into the breakwater from the mountains behind.
We checked in at the control tower, extremely helpful staff speaking very good English provided a full glossy brochure of the marina facilities and surround area and by the time you reach the berth, indicated to you on the map, they have radioed a man on a moped to meet you to take your lines! Without so much as sitting down, Kevin and I were straight to the water and electricity supplies (though this involved Kevin hiring and adaptor for a 40 Euro deposit) and got straight on with recharging appliances and washing the boat, which after a month at Graciosa was covered everywhere in red dust and salt. After an hour of frantic scrubbing and plugging in electronic devices to every possible socket, we were done and decided to go and investigate the facilities on the other side of the harbour. This is where we truly realised we had come to the diametric opposite of Graciosa, there is a full designer shopping arcade, about 8 restaurants and a dolphin & whale museum all in a beautifully architected walkway on the harbour side with sculptures and tree shaded seating. Our first mission was to use the laundrette, though this is actually a washing service, which cost us 20 Euro for 2 large carrier bags full which we would ordinarily have done with hand washing but for the lack of water in Graciosa and the rule about not hanging out washing here. However, the whole place is absolutely spotless, though after a day’s sailing we felt a little underdressed and settled for a celebratory beer in a cafe on the edge of the development.
Ropes were cast off just after 10am for a sail of 36 miles to Puerto Calero marina, on south west Lanzarote. It was a little overcast as we left Graciosa as it has a tendency to be there every morning; forecast was for 15 knots from NW, the usual trade winds in the area. So we head out round the northern tip of Lanzarote following the ferry route we have both taken a couple of times now to Orzola. As we expected it was rather choppy passing the headland as we were motoring into wind and current, but as soon as we passed Orzola we were literally flying along the coast! I finally saw some wildlife - two flying fish and a large turtle basking on the surface.
It was really invigorating sail, as soon as we were running down the coast and downwind Invincible really got into her stride. The wind was pretty gusty at times as you head out of the shadow of one of the volcanic peaks and into the valley before the next peak where it blow across the land and we were getting up to 23 knots at times, however, we were reefed ready and just enjoyed the ride. Kevin even managed to perfectly time a complete lull in the wind for lunch being served (mushroom spaghetti) which was eaten sat round the saloon table as in fact we always do on passage. As soon as we had eaten we came out from the shadow of the mountain and flew off again. We sailed down the east coast past the airport with the planes coming in overhead. The wind blew consistently all the way to literally the entrance to Puerto Calero marina, which was a little disconcerting having 20 knots of wind coming into an unknown harbour to moor, but luckily the shelter started as soon as we turned into the breakwater from the mountains behind.
We checked in at the control tower, extremely helpful staff speaking very good English provided a full glossy brochure of the marina facilities and surround area and by the time you reach the berth, indicated to you on the map, they have radioed a man on a moped to meet you to take your lines! Without so much as sitting down, Kevin and I were straight to the water and electricity supplies (though this involved Kevin hiring and adaptor for a 40 Euro deposit) and got straight on with recharging appliances and washing the boat, which after a month at Graciosa was covered everywhere in red dust and salt. After an hour of frantic scrubbing and plugging in electronic devices to every possible socket, we were done and decided to go and investigate the facilities on the other side of the harbour. This is where we truly realised we had come to the diametric opposite of Graciosa, there is a full designer shopping arcade, about 8 restaurants and a dolphin & whale museum all in a beautifully architected walkway on the harbour side with sculptures and tree shaded seating. Our first mission was to use the laundrette, though this is actually a washing service, which cost us 20 Euro for 2 large carrier bags full which we would ordinarily have done with hand washing but for the lack of water in Graciosa and the rule about not hanging out washing here. However, the whole place is absolutely spotless, though after a day’s sailing we felt a little underdressed and settled for a celebratory beer in a cafe on the edge of the development.
La Graciosa - IV
After a brief rest following my return from working my notice, I am now back on my blog updates job. This update being happily from the saloon table on Invincible at last after a very long three weeks back in the UK. After 2 days back on Graciosa it feels like I have never been away, I have quickly adopted the local customs under Kevin’s tuition of an early start and walk to the toilet/shower block on the other side of the harbour followed by a coffee at one of the cafes to reflect on plans for the day. After lunch, this involves a siesta, which according to the local timetable can be anytime between 12pm and 5pm. Following siesta and any other required tasks, the cruisers generally gather in one of the pavement cafés to plan the evening ahead.
Yesterday, my chosen daytime activity was sometime at the beach, on account of my extremely white legs which are noted immediately on introduction by all of the other cruisers which Kevin has made acquaintance with in the last three weeks. There is a long sandy beach within a 10 minute walk of where the boat is moored which I now realise is where all the day trippers head when they arrive at the island. There was perhaps 10 other families on the 2 mile stretch though which could therefore, by no means by regarded as over crowed and I gather there are further beaches if more seclusion is preferred. It was great to finally lay back and read a book which is something I don’t seem to have had time for in months. The sun was very warm and the constant tradewinds helped to keep things cool, which is just as well as I am not a seasoned sunbather. I was also itching to go for a swim, Kevin declined, but the water is so clear and blue here it is very inviting. The entrance to the water is over lava smoothed by years of wave motion, the result is very smooth plateau and very gradual slope into the water, then below the waterline there is fan-type weed covering the surface creating a sensation of walking on a deep pile carpet. The water is fairly refreshing at 22 degrees well but worth the effort.
Today’s activities has been completing some accounts and other jobs remaining after my time working and also finally sitting down to edit the dolphin video which I should finish off as soon as we get on mains power. Kevin is now itching to get out sailing, so after our agreed weekend off for me on my return, we are heading off again tomorrow, we are planning 1-2 days at either Puerto Calero or Marina Rubicon (depending on who responds later by email to say they have space for us) to make use of shore power, Wifi, a hose, laundrette and other such luxuries in a full marina. Our next aim will be to spend sometime at anchor, once the boat is clean and our tanks are refilled. Playa Quemada sounds good from the pilot guides “a small fishing village situated on a beach...a few bars and restaurants serving fresh fish dishes”, sounds just our sort of place to anchor up and tender in.
The other main task on access to Wifi, will be to rearrange our wedding after a third and final change of plan (thanks to all our family and friends for their patience!). We have decided now that as the house has sold rather sooner than planned and we will not be departing from Portsmouth, but flying back for the occasion that it seems a bit of a retrospective step for our trip. That plus I now admit it was rather ambitious for me to try and organise the wedding in three weeks, whilst working my notice and trying to visit friends and family up and down the country to say my goodbyes. After a near breakdown under the pressure I suggested to Kevin a beach wedding in the Caribbean after Christmas instead, as a number of my family were already planning to visit then anyway. So after a final and unequivocal vote for the plan from Alex, we are now planning February half term in Grenada, I will be sending out links to a wedding website to invitees (as soon as I have built it next week!) with details of travel and accommodation etc.
Finally, I just wanted to say a final farewell to my ITRF team and all the others I have worked with in Leeds and Newcastle a big thank you for their kind words and cards and generous gifts on sending me off. I have worked with some great people in the last three years and I hope you will all keep in touch and let me know how you are getting on and if you find yourself in an area we are visiting then please get in touch as we’d love to meet up.
Yesterday, my chosen daytime activity was sometime at the beach, on account of my extremely white legs which are noted immediately on introduction by all of the other cruisers which Kevin has made acquaintance with in the last three weeks. There is a long sandy beach within a 10 minute walk of where the boat is moored which I now realise is where all the day trippers head when they arrive at the island. There was perhaps 10 other families on the 2 mile stretch though which could therefore, by no means by regarded as over crowed and I gather there are further beaches if more seclusion is preferred. It was great to finally lay back and read a book which is something I don’t seem to have had time for in months. The sun was very warm and the constant tradewinds helped to keep things cool, which is just as well as I am not a seasoned sunbather. I was also itching to go for a swim, Kevin declined, but the water is so clear and blue here it is very inviting. The entrance to the water is over lava smoothed by years of wave motion, the result is very smooth plateau and very gradual slope into the water, then below the waterline there is fan-type weed covering the surface creating a sensation of walking on a deep pile carpet. The water is fairly refreshing at 22 degrees well but worth the effort.
Today’s activities has been completing some accounts and other jobs remaining after my time working and also finally sitting down to edit the dolphin video which I should finish off as soon as we get on mains power. Kevin is now itching to get out sailing, so after our agreed weekend off for me on my return, we are heading off again tomorrow, we are planning 1-2 days at either Puerto Calero or Marina Rubicon (depending on who responds later by email to say they have space for us) to make use of shore power, Wifi, a hose, laundrette and other such luxuries in a full marina. Our next aim will be to spend sometime at anchor, once the boat is clean and our tanks are refilled. Playa Quemada sounds good from the pilot guides “a small fishing village situated on a beach...a few bars and restaurants serving fresh fish dishes”, sounds just our sort of place to anchor up and tender in.
The other main task on access to Wifi, will be to rearrange our wedding after a third and final change of plan (thanks to all our family and friends for their patience!). We have decided now that as the house has sold rather sooner than planned and we will not be departing from Portsmouth, but flying back for the occasion that it seems a bit of a retrospective step for our trip. That plus I now admit it was rather ambitious for me to try and organise the wedding in three weeks, whilst working my notice and trying to visit friends and family up and down the country to say my goodbyes. After a near breakdown under the pressure I suggested to Kevin a beach wedding in the Caribbean after Christmas instead, as a number of my family were already planning to visit then anyway. So after a final and unequivocal vote for the plan from Alex, we are now planning February half term in Grenada, I will be sending out links to a wedding website to invitees (as soon as I have built it next week!) with details of travel and accommodation etc.
Finally, I just wanted to say a final farewell to my ITRF team and all the others I have worked with in Leeds and Newcastle a big thank you for their kind words and cards and generous gifts on sending me off. I have worked with some great people in the last three years and I hope you will all keep in touch and let me know how you are getting on and if you find yourself in an area we are visiting then please get in touch as we’d love to meet up.
Saturday, 7 June 2008
La Graciosa III
Jo has now arrived back at the boat, after meeting up and spending a night in Costa Teguise, which was an interesting contrast for me after spending nearly three weeks in La Graciosa.
Costa Teguise was a typical holiday resort with full English breakfast, chips and egg, fish and chips and a pint of John Smiths available every 10 paces, alright if you like that thing. The really odd thing for me was hearing people speaking English, like it was the native language.
Anyway it made for a refreshing change to the pace of life I have currently been experiencing on the island, but I was glad to get back, if you know what I mean.
Alan has just been round with some pictures of our day sail round the island. Alan is a professional photographer and has provided us with some really good shots, one he has given to us is a full island shot, which he is intending to present to the local island community. The picture when printed out is 4 meters long.
A sample of Alan’s work (all pictures are copyright to Alan Rault)
Costa Teguise was a typical holiday resort with full English breakfast, chips and egg, fish and chips and a pint of John Smiths available every 10 paces, alright if you like that thing. The really odd thing for me was hearing people speaking English, like it was the native language.
Anyway it made for a refreshing change to the pace of life I have currently been experiencing on the island, but I was glad to get back, if you know what I mean.
Alan has just been round with some pictures of our day sail round the island. Alan is a professional photographer and has provided us with some really good shots, one he has given to us is a full island shot, which he is intending to present to the local island community. The picture when printed out is 4 meters long.
A sample of Alan’s work (all pictures are copyright to Alan Rault)
Wednesday, 4 June 2008
La Graciosa II
Jo is now counting down the hours before returning back to the boat.
Meanwhile, we have had a couple of guest staying on the boat from Canada, Mik and Agi, they are over on holiday to see the sights that the Canaries have to offer.
One of our activities was to climb one of the volcanoes, as you do, which there are three on Graciosa, the views of the island from the top are spectacular, plus the lizards are very friendly and have no problem climbing onto your hand and taking a sneaky bite to see what you taste like.
We also decided to have a beach BBQ in the evening, we invited Fabrise and his brother to join us for the party. Fabrise is a man of many talents, during the day he makes and sells gifts for the tourists who visit the island, and then early evening he will go fishing to supplement his dinner. Fabrise has set himself a daily budget limit of 5 euros, which includes his mooring fees!
I have learned a lot from watching his very impressive way of living, he is probably the most chilled out guy on the planet and does not understand the meaning of stressed out. Yesterday he slipped his lines and was going onto his next destination, you could make a very interesting film about his journey. I really hope we meet him again on our travels.
One thing which is very clear to me about the cruising scene is that you will meet a lot of new and interesting characters, last night having a quieter moment in the only bar which was open last night, I had George and Gemma a Spanish couple who were visiting for the day, both of whom spoke excellent English, being English teachers I guess they will do, come and sit down at my table and strike up a conversation as though we had known each other for years, one beer was the limit as I wanted a quite night, so said my goodbyes and left, only to get to the next table, when a friendly voice with a mild northern Irish accent asked me if I knew were to find the harbour master, should have asked me 5 minutes ago, he was sat behind you, sort of getting to know the place now!
Within a short space of time I was invited to join them in a beer, rude not to, we exchanged information, only to find out, that they now own an apartment on La Gomera and they have relocated their boat to the Canaries and are spending time going round the islands.
Sticking to my promise of an early night, one beer and bid them a fond far well, with an invite for the following day to the boat to update my cruising guide, with the very latest developments they have discovered.
On turning round to leave, Alan and Christine had sneaked in and invited me to join them, well you know the script.
Needles to say, I did make it home at a very respectable time, to make a fabulous meal, Canary potatoes cut into small cubes, onion, sweetcorn, garlic, chorizo and some left over sausage from the provisioning we did in La Rochelle, olive oil into the wok, and heat through, the potatoes were left over’s from the beach party, which had been cooked canarian style, boiled in sea water. It was that good, it will be a repeated again tonight, oh yes, it was accompanied by a very good bottle of red – Vina Albali Reserva 2003 highly recommended.
Cleaning duties today, I want the boat ship shape for Jo’s arrival.
Meanwhile, we have had a couple of guest staying on the boat from Canada, Mik and Agi, they are over on holiday to see the sights that the Canaries have to offer.
One of our activities was to climb one of the volcanoes, as you do, which there are three on Graciosa, the views of the island from the top are spectacular, plus the lizards are very friendly and have no problem climbing onto your hand and taking a sneaky bite to see what you taste like.
We also decided to have a beach BBQ in the evening, we invited Fabrise and his brother to join us for the party. Fabrise is a man of many talents, during the day he makes and sells gifts for the tourists who visit the island, and then early evening he will go fishing to supplement his dinner. Fabrise has set himself a daily budget limit of 5 euros, which includes his mooring fees!
I have learned a lot from watching his very impressive way of living, he is probably the most chilled out guy on the planet and does not understand the meaning of stressed out. Yesterday he slipped his lines and was going onto his next destination, you could make a very interesting film about his journey. I really hope we meet him again on our travels.
One thing which is very clear to me about the cruising scene is that you will meet a lot of new and interesting characters, last night having a quieter moment in the only bar which was open last night, I had George and Gemma a Spanish couple who were visiting for the day, both of whom spoke excellent English, being English teachers I guess they will do, come and sit down at my table and strike up a conversation as though we had known each other for years, one beer was the limit as I wanted a quite night, so said my goodbyes and left, only to get to the next table, when a friendly voice with a mild northern Irish accent asked me if I knew were to find the harbour master, should have asked me 5 minutes ago, he was sat behind you, sort of getting to know the place now!
Within a short space of time I was invited to join them in a beer, rude not to, we exchanged information, only to find out, that they now own an apartment on La Gomera and they have relocated their boat to the Canaries and are spending time going round the islands.
Sticking to my promise of an early night, one beer and bid them a fond far well, with an invite for the following day to the boat to update my cruising guide, with the very latest developments they have discovered.
On turning round to leave, Alan and Christine had sneaked in and invited me to join them, well you know the script.
Needles to say, I did make it home at a very respectable time, to make a fabulous meal, Canary potatoes cut into small cubes, onion, sweetcorn, garlic, chorizo and some left over sausage from the provisioning we did in La Rochelle, olive oil into the wok, and heat through, the potatoes were left over’s from the beach party, which had been cooked canarian style, boiled in sea water. It was that good, it will be a repeated again tonight, oh yes, it was accompanied by a very good bottle of red – Vina Albali Reserva 2003 highly recommended.
Cleaning duties today, I want the boat ship shape for Jo’s arrival.
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