Tuesday 10 June 2008

Puerto Calero, Lanzarote

Yesterday morning we finally left Graciosa after nearly four weeks, we visited the harbour master to pay our dues who performed the now familiar random number generation to create our bill. This time the slot machine paid in our favour with a bill of only 100 Euro for 26 days working out at 3.84 Euros a night. Bargain!

Ropes were cast off just after 10am for a sail of 36 miles to Puerto Calero marina, on south west Lanzarote. It was a little overcast as we left Graciosa as it has a tendency to be there every morning; forecast was for 15 knots from NW, the usual trade winds in the area. So we head out round the northern tip of Lanzarote following the ferry route we have both taken a couple of times now to Orzola. As we expected it was rather choppy passing the headland as we were motoring into wind and current, but as soon as we passed Orzola we were literally flying along the coast! I finally saw some wildlife - two flying fish and a large turtle basking on the surface.



It was really invigorating sail, as soon as we were running down the coast and downwind Invincible really got into her stride. The wind was pretty gusty at times as you head out of the shadow of one of the volcanic peaks and into the valley before the next peak where it blow across the land and we were getting up to 23 knots at times, however, we were reefed ready and just enjoyed the ride. Kevin even managed to perfectly time a complete lull in the wind for lunch being served (mushroom spaghetti) which was eaten sat round the saloon table as in fact we always do on passage. As soon as we had eaten we came out from the shadow of the mountain and flew off again. We sailed down the east coast past the airport with the planes coming in overhead. The wind blew consistently all the way to literally the entrance to Puerto Calero marina, which was a little disconcerting having 20 knots of wind coming into an unknown harbour to moor, but luckily the shelter started as soon as we turned into the breakwater from the mountains behind.



We checked in at the control tower, extremely helpful staff speaking very good English provided a full glossy brochure of the marina facilities and surround area and by the time you reach the berth, indicated to you on the map, they have radioed a man on a moped to meet you to take your lines! Without so much as sitting down, Kevin and I were straight to the water and electricity supplies (though this involved Kevin hiring and adaptor for a 40 Euro deposit) and got straight on with recharging appliances and washing the boat, which after a month at Graciosa was covered everywhere in red dust and salt. After an hour of frantic scrubbing and plugging in electronic devices to every possible socket, we were done and decided to go and investigate the facilities on the other side of the harbour. This is where we truly realised we had come to the diametric opposite of Graciosa, there is a full designer shopping arcade, about 8 restaurants and a dolphin & whale museum all in a beautifully architected walkway on the harbour side with sculptures and tree shaded seating. Our first mission was to use the laundrette, though this is actually a washing service, which cost us 20 Euro for 2 large carrier bags full which we would ordinarily have done with hand washing but for the lack of water in Graciosa and the rule about not hanging out washing here. However, the whole place is absolutely spotless, though after a day’s sailing we felt a little underdressed and settled for a celebratory beer in a cafe on the edge of the development.



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